※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●Daejeon Story●
#1 Since 1952, Sariwon Noodle Houset(사리원면옥)
There are Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle establishments in each region, but 'Sariwon Noodle House' would be the first that comes to your mind when you talk about 'Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle' in Daejeon. In 1952, family of the late Kim Bong-deuk from Sariwon, Hwanghae-do settled in Daejeon right after the Korean War and sold Northern-style cold buckwheat noodles. Sariwon Noodle House is well known for Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle as well as the first restaurant permitted as a general restaurant in Daejeon Metropolitan City. Today, the son of the founder, Kim Gyung-jun (64), and his wife Song Myung-hee (64) are running the business. Also, their two sons, Kim Gi-nam (39) and Kim Gi-seok (37) are diligently learning to take the business for fourth generation.
Owner Song Myung-hee said, "Because noodles are made of buckwheat flour and are digested easily, we made bulgogi to go along", and added, "In winter, less customers came for cold noodles, so we served Short Rib Soup, which has become famous among customers." When mother began to talk, her elder son, Gi-nam added explanation of the menus with confidence.
"Cold noodles are our main menu, but we also put hard effort into bulgogi by making seasoning with fresh fruits and vegetables. Short Rib Soup was targeted for winter, but since people spread the word that we put plenty amount of meat, it has become an all-season menu. The most unique menu that differentiates us from other Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle restaurants would be 'Beef Kimchi Bibim'. Most restaurants that make broth from shank or brisket would have menus using meat that has been used to make broth. This is sure evidence of making broth in the restaurant. To this end, we have introduced Beef Kimchi Bibim."
Gi-nam pointed out 'memory' as the secret of long-run at Sariwon Noodle House. This is because there are vestiges of long regulars who have come even before he can remember. This is the reason why the family of Sariwon Noodle House is dedicated to pass down the business.
"Around half of our customers come outside Daejeon. Instead of simply exploring good restaurants, they come back again for the memory after moving because of marriage or job. We rebuilt today's restaurant around 10 years ago, and some of them say that they miss the past. But then, when they taste our cold noodles, they are satisfied saying, 'It tastes the same.' (Laughs.) We hope to celebrate the 100th anniversary by maintaining this taste."
Address 62, Junggyo-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (5 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon).
Opening Hours 11am - 10pm
Representative Menu Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles, Short Rib Soup, Bulgogi
#2 Since 1977, Daejeon Galbi House (대전갈비집)
Pork Ribs, one of the most popular dining menus of families, were livelihood of Lee Jeom-sun (63), the owner of 'Daejeon Galbi House'. The restaurant that began with two briquette stoves in a small space to raise three siblings 40 years ago, has reached today's size with over 200 seats. The owner may be astonished at the changes, but she feels that nothing much has changed, and doesn't feel the change of time. This may be evidence that she lived an extremely busy life and kept to the original intention.
"I didn't start because I was confident in pork ribs. At first, I marinated in my own way, and when a customer said it's too salty, I put less salt, and when a customer said it's too sweet, I put less sugar. That way, I adjusted the taste. Today's recipe was completed by learning from customers over the decades. But in return, I have a belief of using only the honest and good ingredients."
Pork Ribs were made based on the appetite of many customers, but some may feel unfamiliar with the appearance. Usually, pork ribs are dark brown in color, but here, the color of pork ribs is close to fresh meat. You may think it tastes dull and insipid, but she confidently suggests that you 'try first'.
"Because our meat looks bland in the appearance, some may be doubtful about the taste. But it seems that their thought changes after tasting one bite. (Laughs.) People like the clean taste of fresh meat and the characteristic salty and sweet tastes of pork ribs at the same time. Most pork ribs seasonings in the market have artificial coloring. Also, they try to hide the bad quality meat by using dark color. We never use artificial coloring in the seasoning, and choose fresh and high quality meat each day, and directly trim in the restaurant. Honesty is our loyalty and promise to customers."
The owner emphasizes trust in gratitude toward the customers who helped maintaining livelihood during the hard times. Inexpensive prices compared to the quality and efforts also came from this intention.
"Husband passed away when the eldest was in the middle school. We still have customers who came during the difficult times to help us. My three children grew up well and became a Korean medicine doctor, a doctor and a prosecutor, and I think they could grow up so well not because of my own efforts, but also because of the help of customers who have visited at Daejeon Galbi House. So I can't raise prices and use cheap ingredients. I'd like to greet my customers with good short ribs as long as my health allows to repay their kindness."
Address 419-8, Daejeoncheonseoro-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (9 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon)
Opening Hours 11am - 10:30pm
Representative Menu Pork Ribs, Soybean Sprout Stone Pot with Rice
#3 Since 1983, Yeongdong Restaurant (영동식당)
In the Special Food Street between Gyebaek-ro and Gyeryong-ro, also called 'Food Street' near the Seodaejeonnegeori (Jct.) Station, there are restaurants standing in a row and boasting of their long tradition and good taste. Above all, 'Yeongdong Restaurant' loved for healthy menus including Goat Stew and Rabbit Soup, is even more reliable with titles such as 'exemplary restaurant' and 'third generation & 30-year tradition business' certified by the Daejeon Metropolitan City. Because the restaurant is located inside a narrow alley instead of the main street with a series of restaurants, customers are mainly regulars instead of casual customers. Although it looks familiar and quiet, customers coming from word-of-mouth often line up in the alley. Kim Dae-heum (56) who's responsible for the taste of Yeongdong Restaurant after inheriting the business from his mother Jeong Won-ja (77), always feels sorry for long waiting customers. For this reason, he refuses the proposals from TV food shows.
"If we are introduced on TV, people will come from all over the place and this will cause inconvenience to regulars. We have many who drink over braised spicy chicken, and they will feel pressured to leave, and I don't feel comfortable to see customers wait outside for a long time. Instead of introducing on TV to draw people, I feel most thankful and pleasant when people spread the word after dining here."
Some regulars bring people to offer braised spicy chicken. Confidence in recommending a restaurant to others would be possible because the taste and service are satisfactory at all times. The owner also regards unchanging taste and friendly response as the secret of the restaurant's long-run.
"As for franchises, we expect uniform taste and service, but if they don't keep to the basics, they will close down soon. It's no different for us even though we are a small business. I believe, keeping the old taste and greeting customers are my duties. No matter how old and famous we are, we should always keep to the basics and careful, because it takes only seconds for customers to turn away."
Braised spicy chicken of Yeongdong Restaurant is inexpensive for the generous amount. And this is accompanied by various side dishes such as seasonal vegetables and Kimchi. The restaurant went through financial difficulties a few years ago when prices of potatoes soared, which is one of the main ingredients in braised spicy chicken. But they never changed the price.
"At the time, we were on the verge of getting into debts. We had a business with almost no revenues. But no one lowers the price when prices of ingredients fall. So we shouldn't raise the price when ingredients are expensive. Some restaurants reduce the amount or use less ingredients, but this can change the taste. In the ups and downs of the market, we will keep the unchanging taste with perseverance that kept us so far."
Address 27-9, 874 beon-gil, Gyeryong-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (4 minutes’ walk from Seodaejeonnegeori Station)
Opening Hours 11am - 10pm
Representative Menu Braised Spicy Chicken, Goat Stew, Rabbit Soup
※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●Daegu Story●
#1 Since 1957, Sangju Restaurant(상주식당)
When you walk along a narrow alley between sky-scrapers near Jungang-ro subway station, also known as Myeongdong of Daegu, you come to a cozy old house. This is 'Sangju Restaurant'. In front of the gate is a signboard saying, 'No Drinking. No Smoking, business period from March 1 to December 15'. From the owner Cha Sang-nam (73) who has been running Seongju Restaurant after the late Cheon Dae-gyeom, we heard the hidden story.
"When I was young, it was a small groggery so called 'Sangju House'. As I grew up, I hated my friends calling me a 'groggery girl', and I realized that people look down on you if you sell liquor. I pleaded mother not to sell liquor. That way, we sold Beef Bone Soup in winter, Spicy Chicken Soup in summer, and Loach Soup in autumn. But there were several restaurants selling these menus. So we thought hard 'What to sell in order to survive'. I visited and studied famous restaurants with mother. At that time, meat was rare, so we made a broth from intestines and made Loach Soup, and it tasted good."
Today, they use beef shank instead of intestines. It is specialized for the clean taste by adding high quality loach grown in Korea, high mountain napa cabbage and garlic to this broth. Other secret recipe would only include sincerity, diligence and honesty. A day of the owner begins with cleaning napa cabbage at 5 in the morning.
"When I touch cabbage leaves, the level of moisture varies each day. So I adjust the water depending on the condition. Ingredients are as important as loach. So we don't open during winter when napa cabbage is not harvested."
There's another reason that they don't open the restaurant in the winter. Cha worked in a trading company in Seoul for about 10 years and in the weekends, she came to Daegu and helped her mother. One day, she could not help because she was busy at the company, and when she visited after two weeks, she saw her mother wiping tears quietly .
"I decided that I should help mother again. Because I could not entirely quit from the company, I made a proposal for my mother to take a break for even three to four months in winter when napa cabbage is not harvested. Then, I'll come and work in other seasons. But then, when mother passed away in 1993, my younger siblings gave up inheritance because they were so thankful about raising them with this restaurant. They asked me to take over the Sangju House the pride of mother although it might be difficult for me. In fact, it was also my pride. From then, 25 years have passed. I'm going to make loach soup to keep our pride and promise with younger siblings."
Address 598-1, Gukchaebosang-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (4 minutes’ walk from Daegu Jungangro Station)
Opening Hours 9am - 8:30pm (Opens from March 1 to December 15)
Representative Menu Loach Soup
#2 Since 1972,Bongsan Braised Short Ribs(봉산찜갈비)
'Braised Short Ribs Alley in Dongin-dong' near Daegu Metropolitan City Hall, is a representative food street loved by locals and tourists alike. This is where you can taste 'braised short ribs' with spicy garlic seasoning instead of sweet soy sauce seasoning. And 'Bongsan Braised Short Ribs' has been the first comer in this food town.
In the beginning, it had been a noodle house for day laborers in the nearby construction sites, but as customers asked for meat menus, today's house of braised short ribs was born. Beef short ribs enhance health of people after hard labor, and spicy and salty seasoning restores appetite in scorching hot weather of Daegu. In addition, they put a generous amount of minced garlic. The food comes in a simple brass pot without garnish or decoration, which had been used to serve noodles. The bumpy brass pot reveals the wrinkles from age, and for this reason, the restaurant has many regulars who shared good and bad times. This 'memory' was a critical opportunity for the second owner, Choi Byung-yeol (50) to inherit from his mother, Lee Sun-nam.
"I studied in a university and worked at company in Seoul. When I turned 40, mother wanted me to come down and inherit the restaurant. At first, I wanted to refuse, but for the sense of duty as an only son, I traveled to and from Seoul for one year and did hall serving. That was when my thoughts changed. I realized that there were so many people who loved and cherished the memory of our restaurant. Thinking that their memory would vanish with Bongsan Braised Short Ribs, I had sense of responsibility and mission. At last, I came back to Daegu in the following year and started aright."
Reminding of the determination at the time, he plans to continue the reputation as 'A space to present memory'. In addition, he works hard to lead pleasant dialogues with customers thinking that 'food means communication'.
"These days, people look at mobile phones and don't talk to each other even when they are dining out. People somehow talk over drinks, so we have free cork charges for all types of liquor. I'm happy if customers make memorable times."
Emphasizing 'people over money' in terms of a successful life, he is also interested in 'environmental issues'.
"I'm making small changes such as putting an umbrella draining machine instead of a plastic cover like cafes that do not use disposable goods. I'm thinking of new ways such as rewarding customers who return untouched side dishes to reduce food wastes. We are borrowing this environment from our descendants, so I'd like to pass down clean environment along with Bongsan Braised Short Ribs to our descendants."
Address 9-18, 36-gil, Dongdeok-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (9 minutes’ walk from Chilseongsijang Station)
Opening Hours 10am - 10pm (Closed on National Holidays)
Representative Menu Braised Short Ribs, Rib-eye Stew
#3 Since 1963, Miseongdang(미성당)
'Flat Dumplings' are one of the 'Top 10 Delicacies of Daegu' along with Dongin-dong Braised Short Ribs, Spicy Raw Fish Salad and Blow Fish Bulgogi. When we talk about tasty dumplings, most people would think of generous fillings in thin skin, but flat dumplings are the opposite. They are flat just like its name, fillings are scarce, and dumpling skin takes the biggest role. You would wonder what to expect for its taste, but its simple and soft texture like Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles will arouse your appetite.
There are several restaurants that sell flat dumplings all around the country, but 'Miseongdang' boasts of the longest history. When food was scarce immediately after the Korean War, the late Lim Chang-gyu who founded Miseongdang, designed flat dumplings by using minimal ingredients of glass noodles, chives and flour. Most dumplings are served right after making and steaming, but to make flat dumplings, you boil them once, soak in water for about an hour and grill over high heat. This was a desperate measure to expand dumplings in size in difficult times. Thanks to this idea, flat dumplings looked not only plenty but also gained the unique soft texture. Today, we don't starve anymore, but the second owner after his father, Lim Su-jong (56) keeps to the original recipe from 50 years ago.
"The recipe and ingredients are unchanged. It looks as if we don't put any ingredients or efforts into it, but it's not easy to get a uniform taste and shape each day. We make around 15,000 to 20,000 dumplings in a weekday and 30,000 in a weekend, and all our employees are veterans with over 20 years of experience. I think the secrets of a long-run were reliable employees and honest taste."
Generosity of the owner would have contributed to continuous service of employees. Lim says that he is thankful and that they are 'helping each other'. For the long history, family of Miseongdang have shared good and bad times. But this year, they had to leave the restaurant where they cherished 50-years of memory. They had to relocate because Namsan 4-5 District where Miseongdang was originally located began reconstruction of apartment. They were sorry, but regarded this as another beginning for the next long-run. At the beginning, Lim's son offered helping hand.
"My son decided that he would inherit the business, and is learning hard. Because the restaurant is too fresh (laughs), it doesn't have the old atmosphere, but we will gradually build up history by maintaining the taste. Of course, son's skill will be upgraded. Father always emphasized the importance of the 'smoky taste'. I think this is our knowhow and I hope my son to keep this smoky taste."
Address 93, Myeongdeok-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (4 minutes’ walk from Namsan Station)
Opening Hours 10:30am - 9pm (Closed on National Holidays)
Representative Menu Flat Dumplings, Spicy Cold Chewy Noodles, Udon, etc.
※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●Busan Story●
#1 Since 1959, Baekgudang(백구당)
Baekgudang, meaning 'white seagull', is the oldest western-style bakery in Busan. For 60 years over 3 generations, the name changed into 'New Paris Bakery' and the store changed its size, but the taste of bread is unchanged. Jo Jae-bung (54), the third owner said, "Our secret of long-run was introducing new tastes through study while maintaining old ways with honest ingredients." From sweet paste bun and western-style cakes of early days to 'Croissant' made 45 years ago by the second owner, and 'Mugwort & Rice Loaf' developed by the present owner, the fame continued throughout the past and the present. Especially, Jo Jae-bung focuses on combining Korea's local seasonal food ingredients with bread.
"We strive to develop bread using local seasonal food. We made mugwort castella in the spring, and red persimmon roll cake in the autumn. We choose good ingredients directly from production areas. We do natural fermenting without additives or preservatives. We have pride in honest ingredients, and I feel worthwhile because we never deceive our customers."
He has philosophy and pride about bread to the extent of a craftmanship, but in fact, he didn't have plan to inherit Baekgudang in the first place. After graduating from the university in Seoul, he worked diligently in a large construction company. But when his father had a stroke, a shadow was cast on Baekgudang. His family was concerned over inheriting Baekgudang, and at last, Jo Jae-bung took the lead as the eldest.
"In order to succeed, I went to the Korea Baking School, obtained certificates and studied business at a Graduate School. I joined father's business in August 2000, and in the first 6 months, I pushed myself into work from 4am in the morning until 12am midnight. Fortunately, at that time my father still had energy and I received the technique to bake bread."
Does he have plans to pass down the business? Instead of the expression, 'inheriting the business', he began to talk, "I will take business temporarily'.
"Baekgudang will keep going, and I took it over in the meantime. Next, I hope my second son to take it, but I cannot assure, because my father first considered passing down to my younger brother. In the end, I think it would be Baekgudang's duty to choose the next owner. (Laughs)"
Address 3, 81 beon-gil, Jungangdae-ro, Jung-gu, Busan
Opening Hours Mon - Sat 8am - 10pm, Sun 9am - 5pm, National Holiday 9am - 6pm
Representative Menu Croissant, Mugwort & Rice Loaf, Pie Manju, etc.
#2 Since 1967, Yangsan House(양산집)
We cannot leave out 'Pork and Rice Soup' when we visit Busan. Above all, Yangsan House was the first restaurant to sell pork and rice soup on the street of Kkangtong Market. Somehow the old pork and rice soup restaurant reminds you of an elderly granny, but this place is run by a young man of early thirties, Noh Chi-gwon (31). For a famous restaurant for its taste, people may easily think that he gained benefit from inheriting family business, but it was a different story with Mr. Noh. When he prepared for an exchange student program in the U.S after being discharged from the army, his father and mother passed away one after another from sickness. In the abrupt parting, what remained were Yangsan House and passion of a young man of twenties. The owner, in memory of the times, said, "I had no choice."
"I had to earn money for living right away, and I thought it would be better to carry on the family business instead of working in a company. In general, you inherit knowhow of how to cook food and run a business from the previous generation, but I had no time for any of these. I tried to reproduce the taste by adding advice from relatives and acquaintances to my over-the-shoulder knowledge, but it tasted terrible in the beginning. I often heard customers saying, 'It's not as good as it used to be since the son took over the business.' At that time, I could not post the title of 'Business in Third Generation'.
He went into the business without knowing how to cut. For a while, he learned cutting skills by working in a nearby Japanese restaurant after work. He gradually got closer to the original taste by studying soup within ingredients used by his grandmother and mother. This way, he gained approval of neighboring merchants and regulars, and finally in 2014, he declared the title confidently, 'Business in Third Generation'.
"I worked hard to restore the original hand taste, but even more, I keep it in mind, 'Inheriting the Spirit'. My grandmother and mother always helped those in need while they worked laborious business. Over three generations, I thought it would be worthwhile to inherit the philosophy of the past generations instead of only inheriting materials. Originally, the title was named after the name of region, and they gave it a meaning of 'Endless Charity' from its Chinese meanings, 'raising'(養) and 'flowing'(汕).
In fact, Yangsan House has been donating a part of its profit to poor neighbors and organizations. Like his grandmother always said, "Feed everybody", he has been warming the world with his 'large bowl' he inherited from his early generations.
"Like a warm bowl of soup melts your body and soul, I want to share warmth with people. I feel so proud by the thought that I can help somebody to survive with the money from my hard work. I want to become a 'large bowl' that can share warmth with people like a bowl of soup."
Address 30, 47 beon-gil, Junggu-ro, Jung-gu, Busan (9 minutes’ walk from Jagalchi Station)
Opening Hours Everyday 10am - 8pm, Break Time: 3pm - 5pm
Representative Menu Pork and Rice Soup, Boiled Pork Slices, Boiled Pork Slices Meal
#3 Since 1950, Seongil House(성일집)
Seongil House, boasting the longest history among sea eel restaurants in the alley at the back of former Busan City Hall, is run by the second owner, Choi Young-sun and her son Kim Seong-yong. 68 years old Mrs. Choi devotes in trimming sea eels for four hours every day. You're mistaken if you think of finger-sized sea eels that you eat over drinks. It's as thick as a tight fist, and as long as the owner's arm. This is possible only because the sea eels are grown in Korea. The owners were proud of their matchless ingredients.
"People who used to eat eel in other restaurants are surprised at our food. Most restaurants use cheap imported sea eels or even cheaper frozen sea eels. It might be better if we think only of the profit, but now we work for the tradition of Seongil House and my reputation rather than money. When this passes down to my son, it will be one hundred years of history, and I believe that I should pass down such confidence."
She says that she's not chasing after money, but when she inherited Seongil House from her mother-in-law, they were in a complicated situation. After the Korean War, she began cooking sea eels and opened up a restaurant to feed eight children in difficult circumstances, but at that time, sea eels were not popular. Choi's strong will contributed to bringing Seongil House to feet.
"I got married when I was twenty, but we didn't have a wedding because we had a debt. I promised mother-in-law that 'I will work hard and have a wedding ceremony 10 years later.' I put everything into sea eels. Thankfully, I paid off the debt in 10 years, and the family budget improved, and I could have a wedding ceremony. I think I lived a successful life because I raised my kids who gave me beautiful grandchildren. I'm happy because I don't have to borrow from others but give mine."
Another pride of Seongil House is that they do not use 'artificial seasoning'. Instead, the broth made from 23 oriental medicinal herbs enhances the savory taste. The combination of high quality sea eels and medicinal herbs means healthy food. These efforts were originated from her love toward grandchildren.
"Sea eels are highly nutritious with high proteins, and are good for the growth of children. But most children don't like its taste. I asked my grandson to eat sea eels 20 times in return for the latest mobile phone. After promising this, I thought night and day how to make healthier taste. After trying various medicinal herbs, seaweeds and vegetables, I came up with today's seasoning. We will never use artificial seasonings in the future. And I have to feed my grandson four more times (Laughs)."
Address 103, Daegyo-ro, Jung-gu, Busan (3 minutes’ walk from Nampo Station)
Opening Hours Everyday 11am - 11pm
Representative Menu Grilled Salted Sea Eel, Grilled Marinated Sea Eel
※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●Incheon & Gyeonggi Story●
#1 Since 1946, Gyeongin Noodle House(경인면옥)
Ham Yong-bok, the first generation owner from Pyeongan-do Province, opened Gyeongin Noodle House after inheriting Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle recipe from his eldest brother who had run a cold buckwheat noodle house. The business was inherited to his son, Ham Won-bong, and subsequently to his grandson, Ham Jong-uk who is the third owner. In fact, Gyeongin Noodle House was born even before Ham Jong-uk was born.
"Originally, it was a rice soup restaurant called 'Gyeongin Restaurant', and my grandfather acquired it to open a cold noodle house. Because many customers came for rice soup, he began business by adding cold noodle to the existing menu. Menus of the time remained even in my father's generation, but as I took over the restaurant, I gradually reduced the menu because I wanted to concentrate more on the taste of cold noodle."
Over three generations, menus were reduced, but the quality of food upgraded. They use bay salt that has been matured more than three years, and only the Korean beef with higher than grade 1 (1, 1+, 1++) for noodle toppings and soup base. The ingredients cost two to three times more expensive than before but this does not mean a rise in the price. Also, the quality of ingredients changed, but the recipe is still the same as 70 years ago. Gyeongin Noodle House is keeping the site and taste, but the public awareness to Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle changed a lot over time, of course, in a positive way.
"Even during my father's time, most people preferred Hamheung Cold Buckwheat Noodles. Sometimes we had customers who were unfamiliar with the clean taste of Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle and complained about the soup base. It has been not long since Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle gained popularity thanks to gourmets who introduced it on TV program. Now even those who have never tasted it before enjoy its 'charming taste'.
Because of the unique clean taste of Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle, sensitive customers respond to even the slightest changes. Even though they strive to make the same taste each day, it's not easy to maintain uniform taste. Family of Gyeongin Noodle House eat cold noodles for lunch to check the taste of the day.
"Noodle taste can vary by weather and sometimes by my daily condition. But we try to make the same taste as 70 years ago by keeping to the basics. It is our long wish and goal to serve consistent and honest cold noodles even after decades."
Address 38, 46 beon-gil, Sinpo-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon (8 minutes’ walk from Dongincheon Station)
Opening Hours 11am - 9pm (Until 3pm on Tuesday) Break Time: 3pm - 4:30pm, Weekend & National Holiday: 4pm - 5pm
Representative Menu Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles, Pyeongyang Spicy Buckwheat Noodles, Mung Bean Pancake, etc.
#2 Since 1963, Jidonggwan(지동관)
'Jidonggwan' is a representative Chinese restaurant in Uijeongbu city that has continued by three generations of Chinese chefs in Korea. 'Jidong' was named after the wish to reunite with family of Kim Seong-jeong, the first owner who was originally from Shandong, China. Especially, Kim received the Order of National Security Merit from former President Park Jung-hee for his participation in military service during the Korean War. Afterward, people called him 'Master Sergeant Kim' and visited Jidonggwan often in reward of his participation in the war. Kim Yuk-an (60), the second owner said, "Jidonggwan settled down well thanks to citizens of Uijeongbu."
"Those who thanked my father at the time even visit today. This means that we have many middle-aged regulars. Since we run the business in the same place for a long time, we went through remodeling and changes, and a few years ago, we installed an elevator for the convenience of customers. The restaurant is two stories, and it was not easy for some people with uneasy movement to climb up and down the stairs. We thought we could make this change for elderlies who visited for a long time."
Kim Yuk-an is still in the business, but he entrusted much about the business to two sons in preparation for full inheritance of the family business. The elder Kim Ji-seong (30) is in charge of customer and staff management in the hall while the younger Kim Ji-ryang (28) is responsible for cooking and menu development. Customers who saw them from kids say that they are delighted to see the two inheriting the business. Kim Ji-seong said, "The business continued for three generations, and customers also come throughout the time", and spoke of his aspiration to maintain the reputation to reward long regulars.
"I never thought that I must continue the family business, but if I retrospect it, I felt sorry if the history of Jidonggwan vanishes inevitably. Because two of us helped father from our young ages, we are not unfamiliar with the work, but the responsibility itself is heavy on my shoulder. Recently, we were designated as a '100-year Restaurant' by the Ministry of SMEs and Startups, and I think it's worthwhile to reach 100th anniversary to deserve the title!"
Jidonggwan serves excellent general Chinese menus such as Noodles in Black Bean Paste, Spicy Noodles with Vegetables and Seafood, and Sweet and Sour Pork, but it's also fun to discover various handmade dim sum and delicacies. They are continuously offering new menus preferred by the young generation such as Adductor Muscles or Beef in Mala Sauce and Guobarou.
"We have over 50 dishes in our menu but people usually order what they are accustomed to. We try to keep the basic taste of long-run menus and also serve trendy dishes. As a result, we plan to lead pleasant changes that satisfy the family of three generations."
Address 78, 1298 beon-gil, Hoguk-ro, Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi-do (5 minutes’ walk from Uijeongbu Station)
Opening Hours Everyday 11am - 9:30pm, Break Time: 3pm - 5pm
Representative Menu Noodles Mixed with Seafood in Black Soybean Sauce, Sweet and Sour Pork, Handmade Dim Sum, etc.
#3 Since 1960, Odeng Restaurant(오뎅식당)
We cannot forget to mention about 'Sausage Stew' when it comes to gourmet restaurant in Uijeongbu. There are old restaurants that serve Sausage Stew Street near the Uijeongbu Jung-ang Station, and 'Odeng Restaurant' boasts of the longest history. How did Huh Gi-sook, the founder of the restaurant, start making sausage stew around 50 years ago? Her grandson and today's owner Kim Min-woo (37) told us the untold stories about the birth of sausage stew.
"In the beginning, she started a fish cake street vendor. One day, customers who worked at the U.S army near the vendor brought ham, sausage and bacon and asked my grandmother to make snack for their drinks. At first, she simply stir-fried whatever they brought to her, and regulars asked her to make a stew to be served with rice. So she cooked a stew by adding Kimchi and seasoning, which became the origin of today's sausage stew."
Although the restaurant specializes in sausage stew, they kept the title 'Odeng Restaurant' as their original customers used to call it during the time of street vendor. In fact, this place gained popularity when it was introduced in 'Le Grand Chef', a cartoon by Huh Young-man. Unique clean sweet taste is the sole charming point of sausage stew as described in the cartoon. Ordinary sausage stew uses ham, sausage, tofu, minced beef, glass noodles and Kimchi. On top of that, you can add toppings for your preference, and the most popular topping is 'Ramen'. The owner explained about the special secret hidden in Ramen topping.
"We made Ramen topping exclusive for Odeng Restaurant after 6 months of study. These noodles are specialized for sausage stew because collagen makes them more chewy and elastic. They don't puff up easily compared to ordinary Ramen. As for basic ingredients and side Kimchi, we prepar and mature them in a factory at Yeoju. Many regulars feel attractive to our matured Kimchi and come to dine."
They kept the old ways for sausage stew, but changed menus by reflecting trends in each time. The taste of sausage stew is especially changed by the type of topping, which made it possible to keep a long run menu enjoyed by all people regardless of age and gender. Recently, Odeng Restaurant is planning to attract more customers by opening direct stores in other regions. Of course, the owner is confident about the same taste of sausage stew whichever restaurant you visit.
"Our philosophy is consistent taste, so that we run only direct stores and we don't have any plan to start franchising. New stores have modern interior design, but because I wanted to leave vestiges of my grandmother who inherited the family business, I decorated her photos in every store. Like my grandmother, I want to tell my two sons to continue the family business."
Address 15, 1309 beon-gil, Hoguk-ro, Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi-do (2 minutes’ walk from Uijeongbu Jungang Station)
Opening Hours Everyday 8:30am - 8:30pm
Representative Menu Sausage Stew, Assorted Toppings, Ramen Topping, etc.
※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●SEOUL Story●
#1 Since 1967, Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery(김용안 과자점)
'Senbei' is a Japanese-style cracker that Koreans have enjoyed since the Japanese occupation of Korea. It came across the sea, but 'Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery' decided to change into a Korean name so that it could stay rooted in this land for a long time. He named it 'Korean Cracker' instead of Senbei and called differently for each shape and ingredient such as cubes, ginger, peanut, and green laver. After decades of baking crackers since Kim Yong-Ahn (real name Kim Yong-chul) opened the bakery, his son Kim Hyung-jung (49) and son-in-law Lim Wan-sik (40) have continued the business for around 10 years. It takes around eight hours only to make one type of crackers. This is because it takes human hands to make each piece instead of mass production in factories. Efforts are added for better taste, but it demands hard labor. Nevertheless, Lim says the perseverance of keeping the handmade recipes made today's business possible.
"In the days when there were not enough snacks like today, there were many shops selling rice crackers. But because it required hard labor to make crackers and people preferred crackers made in factories, it was difficult to maintain living. Shops closed down one after another, but father took a firm stand. After years, rice crackers that are common now gained value of scarcity. In my understanding, there are only few shops in Korea that bake cracker directly in stores."
In the past, they sold jellies and candies along with handmade rice crackers, but today, they make everything in store except one sort of Dolgangjeong. Most crackers used favorite ingredients for Koreans such as green laver, perilla seeds and ginger, but the bakery is also well visited by foreigners.
"We were once introduced in a regional tourist guide book of Japan, and since then, pretty many Japanese tourists have come to our shop. When there was a US army in Yongsan, military servicemen often came to buy. Some came back to our shop saying, 'I am pleased to find you still here' when they visit Korea even after going back to their country."
Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery has regulars in Korea and abroad. When we asked for any plans to run a postal-order system for more people to easily enjoy crackers, the owner waves dismissively.
"We tried once, but we'd better not. Crackers are fragile and break easily. In summer, they even get soggy. As far as we know, our customers anticipated for taste, but customers and we felt dismayed. It may be a difficult journey for some, but we feel safe to offer the crackers only when we check quality directly."
Address 155, Hangangdae-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (1 minute’s walk from Samgakji Station)
Opening Hours Mon - Fri 10am - 9pm, Sat 10am - 8:30pm
Representative Menu Korean crackers (Cubes, ginger, peanut, green laver, etc.)
#2 Since 1958, Gyeonggi Tteok House(경기떡집)
Recently, the so-called 'Mangridan-gil' has brought frequent visits of youths and foreign tourists to Mangwon-dong area. In this alley of emerging cafes and restaurants of new sensibility, a store has kept its long history. It is called 'Gyeonggi Tteok House'. It was opened when master Choi Gil-sun (66), a student of Kim Jang-seop who established the Heungin Mill in 1958, inherited the tradition. And this tradition has been inherited to his four sons reaching today's Tteok House. Four sons has studied Tteok as a healthy dessert for all people to enjoy lightly with a goal of 'keeping' and 'continuing' the tradition. The eldest, Choi Dae-ro (37) chose 'trust' as the secret of long-run, saying that he plans to make a Tteok House that carries on through second, third and fourth generations.
"Our highest priority is to use food ingredients that our customers can trust to eat. Even today, my father still visits the places of origins to select good rice and grains. Although there may not be major change in taste, we are trying to keep upgrading ingredients. For example, if we have food ingredient that gives 99% taste at 100 won, and food ingredient that gives 100% taste at 200 won, we would definitely choose the latter. We never use aged and foul ingredients. Also, as many people place an order of Tteok to celebrate special days, punctuality is our basic principle. One day, I saw dad crying while making Tteok when my younger brother was sick. For someone, he may not be good father, but I think we need the sense of duty to keep the tradition."
The longest running Tteok made in the hands of the master is 'Black Sesame Injeolmi', but the most popular Tteok is 'ET Tteok'. It's been 20 years since released this Tteok. Because it's one of the oldest menus, some people ask 'what it means in Chinese characters', but in fact, it was named after 'ET' from a classical movie. To both sides of a thumb-sized gluttonous Tteok, we shape and put peeled red bean paste, and the finished Tteok resembles the face of ET. Another major menu would be 'Honey Tteok'. It is popular regardless of gender and age, and it is popular even among foreigners who call it 'Honey Balls'.
Because Tteok can easily make you thirsty, the Tteok House also offers Sikhye and Sujeonggwa. Choi Dae-ro and his brothers plan to launch a dessert cafe of Tteok and beverages made of mixed grain powders.
"Since retro is current trend, people's interest in Tteok has increased. In this environment, fusion desserts have emerged such as tiramishu Tteok and cream cheese Tteok, but we don't want the future of our Tteok to unravel in this direction. We are gathering strength to study menus that can appeal to trendy people while keeping our tradition."
Address 24, 9-gil, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul (2 minutes’ walk from Mangwon Station)
Opening Hours Mon - Sat 8am - 6pm
Representative Menu ET Tteok, Honey Tteok, Black Sesame Injeolmi, etc.
#3 Since 1970, Yetnaljip Nakwon Agujjim(옛날집 낙원아구찜)
'Agwijjim Street' is located near the Nakwon Arcade in Seoul Jongno-gu. 'Yetnaljip Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish (hereafter Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish)' first opened braised spicy monkfish restaurant in this alley, and contributed to today's fame. Because so many businesses named themselves 'Origin' and 'Tradition', they indicated 'Very First' in the signboard.
Spicy but savory braised monkfish of this restaurant has refreshing taste without the unpleasant taste in the mouth. On top of the taste, for the owner first introduced braised spicy monkfish in this Jongno alley, it is natural to suspect that he is from Masan or Gunsan, but no. Jeon Nak-bong (92) who always keeps his position at a table in the corner of the restaurant at his age past 90 is from the North, and his wife Yoon Cheong-ja (80) is from Seoul. Yoon says that there was no special reason to begin serving braised spicy monkfish.
"An acquaintance taught me how to cook. In the beginning, I simply followed the recipe, but I gained tips day after day. I studied in the early years what ingredients enhanced the taste and the ideal proportion of seasonings. Since I organized my own recipe, I have kept the original way until now."
For nearly 50 years, they have trimmed monkfish brought daily from the Noryangjin Fish Market and made radish watery kimchi two to three times a week to maintain the taste. Couples who dated at Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish in the early days come back as old couples, and a son who came with his father brings grandson. The secret would definitely be the taste of braised spicy monkfish that has continued for a long time, but some people also pay a visit to the owners who give a warm welcome to all ages.
"I would be lying if I say it wasn't hard because I worked every day for decades without a break. But when regulars greet me and say 'I'm glad you're still here, aunty', or 'I came to see granny', I'm so thankful for their greeting and visit and energized. And when people say 'There's nowhere like here' after going to several restaurants in the alley, I feel proud and rewarded."
This old couple says that even after deciding to stop working because of their old age and declining health, they can never desert the restaurant at the sight of regulars. But after their youngest son, Jeon Seung-geun (57) inherited the family business, they are only greeting customers at ease.
"The most important thing is the taste of hands, which my son has inherited properly. Old regulars say that the taste is the same as mine. But I'll try to be here if my health allows. Please come and see me because granny is still around."
Address 436, Samildae-ro, Jonggo-ru, Seoul (3 minutes’ walk form Jongro 3-ga Station)
Opening Hours Everyday 11:30am - 10pm
Representative Menu Braised Spicy Monkfish, Monkfish Soup, Braised Spicy Seafood, Seafood Soup, Stir-fried Rice