※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다.
‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'.
●Daejeon Story●
#1 Since 1952, Sariwon Noodle Houset(사리원면옥)
There are Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle establishments in each region, but 'Sariwon Noodle House' would be the first that comes to your mind when you talk about 'Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle' in Daejeon. In 1952, family of the late Kim Bong-deuk from Sariwon, Hwanghae-do settled in Daejeon right after the Korean War and sold Northern-style cold buckwheat noodles. Sariwon Noodle House is well known for Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle as well as the first restaurant permitted as a general restaurant in Daejeon Metropolitan City. Today, the son of the founder, Kim Gyung-jun (64), and his wife Song Myung-hee (64) are running the business. Also, their two sons, Kim Gi-nam (39) and Kim Gi-seok (37) are diligently learning to take the business for fourth generation.
Owner Song Myung-hee said, "Because noodles are made of buckwheat flour and are digested easily, we made bulgogi to go along", and added, "In winter, less customers came for cold noodles, so we served Short Rib Soup, which has become famous among customers." When mother began to talk, her elder son, Gi-nam added explanation of the menus with confidence.
"Cold noodles are our main menu, but we also put hard effort into bulgogi by making seasoning with fresh fruits and vegetables. Short Rib Soup was targeted for winter, but since people spread the word that we put plenty amount of meat, it has become an all-season menu. The most unique menu that differentiates us from other Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle restaurants would be 'Beef Kimchi Bibim'. Most restaurants that make broth from shank or brisket would have menus using meat that has been used to make broth. This is sure evidence of making broth in the restaurant. To this end, we have introduced Beef Kimchi Bibim."
Gi-nam pointed out 'memory' as the secret of long-run at Sariwon Noodle House. This is because there are vestiges of long regulars who have come even before he can remember. This is the reason why the family of Sariwon Noodle House is dedicated to pass down the business.
"Around half of our customers come outside Daejeon. Instead of simply exploring good restaurants, they come back again for the memory after moving because of marriage or job. We rebuilt today's restaurant around 10 years ago, and some of them say that they miss the past. But then, when they taste our cold noodles, they are satisfied saying, 'It tastes the same.' (Laughs.) We hope to celebrate the 100th anniversary by maintaining this taste."
Address 62, Junggyo-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (5 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon).
Opening Hours 11am - 10pm
Representative Menu Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles, Short Rib Soup, Bulgogi
#2 Since 1977, Daejeon Galbi House (대전갈비집)
Pork Ribs, one of the most popular dining menus of families, were livelihood of Lee Jeom-sun (63), the owner of 'Daejeon Galbi House'. The restaurant that began with two briquette stoves in a small space to raise three siblings 40 years ago, has reached today's size with over 200 seats. The owner may be astonished at the changes, but she feels that nothing much has changed, and doesn't feel the change of time. This may be evidence that she lived an extremely busy life and kept to the original intention.
"I didn't start because I was confident in pork ribs. At first, I marinated in my own way, and when a customer said it's too salty, I put less salt, and when a customer said it's too sweet, I put less sugar. That way, I adjusted the taste. Today's recipe was completed by learning from customers over the decades. But in return, I have a belief of using only the honest and good ingredients."
Pork Ribs were made based on the appetite of many customers, but some may feel unfamiliar with the appearance. Usually, pork ribs are dark brown in color, but here, the color of pork ribs is close to fresh meat. You may think it tastes dull and insipid, but she confidently suggests that you 'try first'.
"Because our meat looks bland in the appearance, some may be doubtful about the taste. But it seems that their thought changes after tasting one bite. (Laughs.) People like the clean taste of fresh meat and the characteristic salty and sweet tastes of pork ribs at the same time. Most pork ribs seasonings in the market have artificial coloring. Also, they try to hide the bad quality meat by using dark color. We never use artificial coloring in the seasoning, and choose fresh and high quality meat each day, and directly trim in the restaurant. Honesty is our loyalty and promise to customers."
The owner emphasizes trust in gratitude toward the customers who helped maintaining livelihood during the hard times. Inexpensive prices compared to the quality and efforts also came from this intention.
"Husband passed away when the eldest was in the middle school. We still have customers who came during the difficult times to help us. My three children grew up well and became a Korean medicine doctor, a doctor and a prosecutor, and I think they could grow up so well not because of my own efforts, but also because of the help of customers who have visited at Daejeon Galbi House. So I can't raise prices and use cheap ingredients. I'd like to greet my customers with good short ribs as long as my health allows to repay their kindness."
Address 419-8, Daejeoncheonseoro-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (9 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon)
Opening Hours 11am - 10:30pm
Representative Menu Pork Ribs, Soybean Sprout Stone Pot with Rice
#3 Since 1983, Yeongdong Restaurant (영동식당)
In the Special Food Street between Gyebaek-ro and Gyeryong-ro, also called 'Food Street' near the Seodaejeonnegeori (Jct.) Station, there are restaurants standing in a row and boasting of their long tradition and good taste. Above all, 'Yeongdong Restaurant' loved for healthy menus including Goat Stew and Rabbit Soup, is even more reliable with titles such as 'exemplary restaurant' and 'third generation & 30-year tradition business' certified by the Daejeon Metropolitan City. Because the restaurant is located inside a narrow alley instead of the main street with a series of restaurants, customers are mainly regulars instead of casual customers. Although it looks familiar and quiet, customers coming from word-of-mouth often line up in the alley. Kim Dae-heum (56) who's responsible for the taste of Yeongdong Restaurant after inheriting the business from his mother Jeong Won-ja (77), always feels sorry for long waiting customers. For this reason, he refuses the proposals from TV food shows.
"If we are introduced on TV, people will come from all over the place and this will cause inconvenience to regulars. We have many who drink over braised spicy chicken, and they will feel pressured to leave, and I don't feel comfortable to see customers wait outside for a long time. Instead of introducing on TV to draw people, I feel most thankful and pleasant when people spread the word after dining here."
Some regulars bring people to offer braised spicy chicken. Confidence in recommending a restaurant to others would be possible because the taste and service are satisfactory at all times. The owner also regards unchanging taste and friendly response as the secret of the restaurant's long-run.
"As for franchises, we expect uniform taste and service, but if they don't keep to the basics, they will close down soon. It's no different for us even though we are a small business. I believe, keeping the old taste and greeting customers are my duties. No matter how old and famous we are, we should always keep to the basics and careful, because it takes only seconds for customers to turn away."
Braised spicy chicken of Yeongdong Restaurant is inexpensive for the generous amount. And this is accompanied by various side dishes such as seasonal vegetables and Kimchi. The restaurant went through financial difficulties a few years ago when prices of potatoes soared, which is one of the main ingredients in braised spicy chicken. But they never changed the price.
"At the time, we were on the verge of getting into debts. We had a business with almost no revenues. But no one lowers the price when prices of ingredients fall. So we shouldn't raise the price when ingredients are expensive. Some restaurants reduce the amount or use less ingredients, but this can change the taste. In the ups and downs of the market, we will keep the unchanging taste with perseverance that kept us so far."
Address 27-9, 874 beon-gil, Gyeryong-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (4 minutes’ walk from Seodaejeonnegeori Station)
Opening Hours 11am - 10pm
Representative Menu Braised Spicy Chicken, Goat Stew, Rabbit Soup
