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- 백년가게·백년소공인 174곳 선정… 중기부, “장수 소상공인 롤모델”
- 중소벤처기업부(이하 중기부)는 장수 소상공인성공모형(모델) 확산을 위한 백년가게 104개사와 백년소공인 67개사를 선정했다고 지난 10일 밝혔다. 업종별로 보면 백년가게는 음식점 73개, 도소매 17개, 서비스 14개사가 선정됐고, 백년소공인에는 기계·금속 17개, 식료품 13개, 의류업 8개, 인쇄 3개, 기타 26개사가 포함된다. 올해 선정업체를 포함해 전국의 백년가게는 1262개사, 백년소공인은 807개사로 늘었다. 중기부는 “백년가게와 백년소공인은 업력, 경영철학, 제품·서비스뿐만 아니라 가업 승계, 사회공헌 등 다양한 부문을 종합적으로 평가해 선정한다”라고 설명했다. 중기부의 백년가게 육성사업은 업력이 30년 이상 된 소상공인 및 소·중기업을 대상으로 하며, 100년 이상 존속·성장할 수 있도록 육성하고 성공 모델을 확산하기 위한 사업이다. 백년소공인은 한 분야에서 15년 이상 경영을 하고 있는 우수 소공인을 대상으로 한다. 백년가게와 백년소공인으로 선정되면 현판과 성장 스토리가 담긴 이야기판(스토리보드)을 지원받고, 온라인 판로 및 시설 개선 등 성장지원사업을 신청할 수 있다. 온라인 판로 지원사업을 통해 입점 지원, 실시간 방송판매(라이브커머스) 등 온라인 진출 관련 기초교육부터 입점판매 전반에 대한 전문가 지원을 받을 수 있다. 올해부터는 지속 가능한 백년가게·백년소공인 혁신 성장을 지원하기 위해‘ 선도형(재지정)’을 신설해 지원금액을 상향했고, 지능형(스마트)오더·디지털맞춤형광고(사이니지) 등 지능형(스마트)기술 도입과 가맹점화(프랜차이즈화) 지원 등 지원 내용도 확대했다. 이번에 선정된 백년가게는 역사가 살아 숨 쉬고, 과거와 현재를 잇는 지역 대표 명소가 전국 대표 명소로 거듭날 것으로 기대된다. 먼저 강원 춘천시에 소재한 ’이디오피아 집(벳)‘은 1976년 4월에 창업해약 반세기 가까이 영업을 이어가고 있다. 2대에서 3대째 가업 승계를 앞둔 만큼 춘천을 대표하는 카페로 통한다. 매년 10월 커피축제행사를 통해 수익금 전액을 에티오피아에 기부하고 있다. 경기 광주시에 있는 ’용마루‘는 3대째 가업 승계를 거쳐 남한산성에서 운영 중인 닭요리 전문점으로, 오랜 전통기술을 이어받아 보리쌀을 이용해 직접 담근 된장과 고추장이 별미이다. 특히 용마루백숙 밀키트를 제품화해 전국 어디서나 노포의 대를 이은 진정한 손맛을 느낄 수 있다. 경남 남해군에 있는 ’재두식당‘은 56년의 업력을 가지고 있다. 업체만의 노하우가 담긴 조리 방법으로 냄새가 나지 않는 멸치쌈밥의 멸치찌개가 별미이며, 직접 개발한 시금치 분말 가루로 시금치밥을 지어 제공하고 있다. 이번에 선정된 백년가게 중 서울에 소재한 음식점은 7곳이다. 서울 강남구의 ‘미로정’은 업력 25년의 부대찌개 전문점으로 어머니가 창업해 아들이 물려받아 2대째 업을 이어가고 있다. 한우 뼈로 우려낸 국물과 남해안 다시마와 야채로 만들어낸 송탄식 부대찌개에 쑥갓 등을 가미한 파주·문산식으로 맛을 차별화했다. 서울 강남구에 있는 ‘베이징덕’은 업력 21년의 중식집이다. 북경오리구이가 생소하던 시절 국내에 선도적으로 소개했다는 자부심을 이어가고 있는 가게다. 서울 관악구의 ‘오첨지’는 지난 30여 년간 오삼불고기를 비롯한 오징어 요리에만 집중해 왔다. 현재 딸이 물려받아 2대째 어머니의 비법과 정성을 이어가고 있다. 또한, 서울 광진구의 ‘능동아구탕’(업력 37년), 서울 송파구의 ‘송가네 감자탕’(업력 20년), 서울 양천구의 ‘홍농숯불갈비’(업력 29년), 서울 종로구의 ‘용금옥’(업력 39년)이 이번에 백년가게로 선정됐다. 이번 중기부가 선정한 백년가게에는 본지가 한국잡지협회 지원을 받아 제작한 시리즈 '고고가게' 기획 기사에서 소개된 ‘지동관’, ‘사리원면옥’, ‘오뎅식당’ 등 노포들이 다수 포함돼 눈길을 끈다.
- 2022-06-13 14:20
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- 오렌지빛 겨울 노을을 슬그머니 담아 온 지중해 여행
- 창밖에 하얀 눈이 소복이 쌓여있는 겨울밤에 따뜻한 솜이불 속으로 몸을 담그는 순간 느껴지는 행복감. 그 포근하고 편안한 느낌이 겨울 여행의 맛이다. 뻔한 새해맞이를 하고 싶지 않았다. 더군다나 겨울 여행에 갈증을 느꼈다. 그때 하나의 문장이 눈에 들어왔다. “지중해는 푸른 나뭇잎 사이로 햇빛이 황금빛 방울처럼 딸랑딸랑 울리던 곳…” 레몬 향 실린 따스한 바람과 지중해가 반사한 겨울 햇살이 내 영혼을 포근하게 적셔줄 것 같았다. 오렌지빛 겨울 노을을 가슴 속에 슬그머니 담고 싶었다. 그래서 찾아간 곳이 ‘크레타섬’이다. 겨울에 만난 크레타 섬 크레타(Creta) 섬은 그리스 본토와 아프리카 대륙으로부터 각각 300km 떨어진 정확히 중간 지점에 있다. 그리스에서 다섯 번째 큰 섬으로 제주도 면적의 4.5배 크기다. 아테네의 피레우스(Piraeus) 항구에서 밤 페리선을 타고 크레타 섬으로 향했다. 밭이랑을 세우듯 하얗게 물이랑을 일으키는 파도를 밤새도록 넘어 이른 새벽에 크레타의 이라클리온(Heraklion) 항구에 도착했다. 지중해의 겨울은 날씨를 예측할 수 없다는 말을 증명이라도 하듯 바람과 비가 세차게 내리고 있었다. 세찬 바람이지만 찬 기운이 느껴지지 않는 겨울바람이다. 살갗을 쓰다듬어주는 바람이 피부에 착착 달라붙었다. 나도 모르게 한 마디가 나왔다. “아! 바람 좋다.” 잠시 후 새벽 여명과 함께 나타난 야자수와 파릇파릇한 나무들은 멀리 동쪽에서 찾아온 여행자의 기대를 저버리지 않았다. 이라클리온의 중심지는 베니젤로(Venizelos) 광장이다. 광장 가운데 있는 1600년대에 만든 사자분수를 중심으로 수많은 레스토랑과 카페들이 주변에 있다. 비수기여서인지 문을 닫은 가게들이 눈에 띄었다. 하지만 밤이 되자 광장 주변은 물론 골목길에 있는 작은 카페와 바까지도 사람들로 가득 찼다. 그 많은 사람들이 어디에 있다가 어두워진 후에서야 이렇게 나타나는지 놀라웠다. 그때부터 사람들은 밤이 하얗게 새도록 이야기를 나눈다. 이곳 사람들의 삶을 풍부하게 해주는 것은 긴 겨울밤 내내 공감과 소통을 하는 데서 오는 것이라는 생각이 들었다. 지중해의 겨울밤은 하얀색 이야기의 성(城)이다. 겨울 석양을 맞이하기 위해 바닷가 길을 걸었다. 해안가를 따라 즐비하게 늘어선 예쁜 카페 거리가 아니라 황갈색 바위의 방파제 길을 걸었다. 길 중간에서 1500년대에 만들어진 ‘베네치아 요새’를 만났다. 크레타 섬은 ‘베네치아 공화국’의 지배를 받던 시기가 있었다. 그때 지어진 군사시설이다. 겨울 지중해는 해 질 녘 주황색 하늘을 나에게 선사하지 않았다. 아마 겨울이 오면 여름을 기다리는 섬사람들의 마음을 알기 때문에 더 많은 사람에게 선사하기 위해서 참았을 것이다. 방파제에 앉아 한숨을 쉬며 파도로 해변을 핥는 겨울 바다를 지켜보았다. 바다를 지켜보는 것 외에는 아무것도 하지 않았다. 내가 바다를 지키는 것이 아니라 바다가 나를 지켜주는 것 같은 포근함이 밀려왔다. 미노스 문명의 크레타 섬, 크노소스 궁전 크레타 섬은 고대 그리스 문명에 영향을 준 미노스 문명의 중심지였다. 시내에 있는 ‘이라클리온 고고학 박물관’에는 놀라울 정도로 발달한 청동기 시대 미노스 문명의 많은 유물이 전시되어 있다. 박물관 앞에서 버스를 타고 20분 정도 거리에 있는 ‘크노소스 궁전’으로 갔다. 겨울이라 관광객도 거의 없이 한산해서 여유롭게 궁전을 둘러볼 수 있었다. 크노소스 궁전은 우리가 많이 알고 있는 그리스 전설 속의 반은 인간, 반은 황소였던 ‘미노타우로스’가 살았다는 전설로 유명한 곳이다. 미로 같은 건물로 지었다는 이야기가 충분히 나올 만한 규모와 구조였다. 서로 연결된 방이 무려 1,400개라고 한다. 벤치에 앉아 흘러가는 구름을 보며 궁전에 얽힌 인물과 이야기들을 하나하나 꿰어 보는 시간을 가졌다. ‘니코스 카잔차키스’와 만나다 크레타섬 출신으로 유명한 사람을 꼽는다면 화가 ‘엘그레꼬’, 가수 ‘나나 무스끄리’와 작가인 ‘니코스 카잔차키스’를 뽑을 수 있다. 이라클리온을 둘러싼 성벽 위에는 ‘니코스 카잔차키스’의 묘가 있다. “최후의 유혹”이라는 작품으로 인해 그리스정교회와 로마가톨릭으로부터 파문을 당했기 때문에 공동묘지에 묻히지 못하고 성벽 위에 있었다. 바람 부는 성벽 위, 그의 묘는 소박했다. 묘비의 글처럼 죽어서도 욕심내지 않은 모습이었다. 평평한 돌과 묘석 그리고 나무 십자가 그것이 모두였다. 묘비에는 그의 소설에서 따온 유명한 문장이 새겨져 있다. “나는 아무것도 바라지 않는다. 나는 아무것도 두려워하지 않는다. 나는 자유다.“ 욕심과 욕망을 버리고, 자유롭게 삶을 즐기라는 그의 외침이 바람에 실려 귓가를 맴돌았다. 자유를 갈망하며 거칠고 힘든 삶을 살았지만, 탁 트인 바다가 한눈에 보이는 지금의 자리가 그의 영원한 안식처로 선택된 것은 어쩌면 필연이었을 것이다. 고개를 돌리면 조금 떨어진 곳에 니코스 카잔차키스 문학의 동료이자 사랑을 알려 준 두 번째 부인 엘리니의 묘가 있다. 그녀의 묘 역시 소박하기 이를 데 없었다. 묘 주변을 둘러볼 때 벤치에 앉아 색연필로 그림을 그리고 있는 여인을 만났다. 파리에서 프랑스 문학을 가르치고 있는 ‘페르(Ferr)’였다. 한국에서 교환학생으로 1년 동안 공부했었다는 그녀는 니코스 카잔차키스와 크레타 섬을 정말 좋아했다. 이렇게 많은 사람이 그의 문학과 그의 외침 ‘자유’에 열광하는 이유는 무엇일까? 자유롭지 못해서 더 자유를 열망하는 것은 아닐까. 사람과 시간, 사연이 오가는 겨울의 항구 크레타 섬에서 이라클리온 다음으로 큰 도시는 하니아(Chania)다. 이곳 역시 베네치아 공화국과 오스만 튀르크의 지배를 받았었다. 여러 문화가 공존하는 낭만적이고 이국적인 분위기의 작은 예쁜 항구다. 하니아는 이라클리온에서 시외버스를 타고 3시간을 가야 하는 거리에 있다. 하니아로 가는 도로는 해변을 따라가는 풍경이 아름다운 길이다. 가는 내내 올리브 나무가 지천에 깔려있는 구릉지들이 바다와 함께 길옆으로 함께 달린다. 크레타 섬에는 30,000그루의 올리브 나무가 있다고 한다. 자연스럽게 올리브 관련 상품들이 특산품으로 많이 판매되고 있었다. 하니아 베네치아 항구의 작은 카페에 앉아 한가로운 시간을 보냈다. 지중해의 겨울 햇살이 내 몸을 관통하고 있었다. 항구는 배만 오가는 곳이 아니었다. 수많은 사람과 시간, 사연들이 오가고 있었다. 그 안에 나의 시간도 있었다. 지금까지 나를 지키는 것조차 버거워 얼마나 많은 것들을 외면해 왔는지 크고 작은 것들이 파노라마처럼 스쳐 지나갔다. 조르바의 말처럼 매사를 정밀하게 재는 저울 한 벌을 내 안에 가지고 있었다. 이제 저울을 버릴 때다. 필요한 건 단순하고 소박한 마음뿐이다. △ 지중해 섬 여행 정보 Tip (아테네에서 크레타 섬 가는 방법 중심으로) - 아테네 피레우스 항구에서 페리를 타면 된다. ‘미노안 라인’과 ‘블루 스타 페리’ 두 개 노선이 있으며 크레타 섬까지는 9시간 정도 걸린다. - 피레우스(Pireaus) 역까지는 지하철(Metro) M1 노선을 이용하는 것이 편하다. - 피레우스 항구 입구에는 배를 타는 각 게이트로 가는 무료 셔틀버스를 운행하고 있다. . - 예약서를 페리 타는 게이트(Exit)에 있는 부스에서 탑승권으로 교환하면 된다. 혹은 직접 구매해도 된다. ▪ 미노안 라인 예약 홈페이지 www.ferries.gr/ ▪ 블루 스타 페리 예약 홈페이지 www.bluestarferries.com ※ 크레타 섬 외에 산토리니 등 다른 섬을 가기 위한 예약과 승선도 동일한 방법으로 하면 된다. ※ 겨울철에는 숙박비, 렌트비 등 모든 요금이 절반 정도로 싼 편이다. 하지만, 바람이 불고 파도가 높으면 배가 출항을 못 해 발이 묶여 있을 수도 있다. (물론, 비행기를 이용하는 방법도 있다) 겨울철 지중해 섬 여행은 반드시 시간적 여유가 있는 일정이어야 한다. △ 크레타 섬 추천 먹거리 베니젤로 광장 꼬치구이 전문점
- 2020-01-14 14:32
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- [고고가게 Eng. ver] Gogo Eateries ⑤ Daejeon Story
- ※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다. ‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'. ●Daejeon Story● #1 Since 1952, Sariwon Noodle Houset(사리원면옥) There are Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle establishments in each region, but 'Sariwon Noodle House' would be the first that comes to your mind when you talk about 'Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle' in Daejeon. In 1952, family of the late Kim Bong-deuk from Sariwon, Hwanghae-do settled in Daejeon right after the Korean War and sold Northern-style cold buckwheat noodles. Sariwon Noodle House is well known for Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle as well as the first restaurant permitted as a general restaurant in Daejeon Metropolitan City. Today, the son of the founder, Kim Gyung-jun (64), and his wife Song Myung-hee (64) are running the business. Also, their two sons, Kim Gi-nam (39) and Kim Gi-seok (37) are diligently learning to take the business for fourth generation. Owner Song Myung-hee said, "Because noodles are made of buckwheat flour and are digested easily, we made bulgogi to go along", and added, "In winter, less customers came for cold noodles, so we served Short Rib Soup, which has become famous among customers." When mother began to talk, her elder son, Gi-nam added explanation of the menus with confidence. "Cold noodles are our main menu, but we also put hard effort into bulgogi by making seasoning with fresh fruits and vegetables. Short Rib Soup was targeted for winter, but since people spread the word that we put plenty amount of meat, it has become an all-season menu. The most unique menu that differentiates us from other Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle restaurants would be 'Beef Kimchi Bibim'. Most restaurants that make broth from shank or brisket would have menus using meat that has been used to make broth. This is sure evidence of making broth in the restaurant. To this end, we have introduced Beef Kimchi Bibim." Gi-nam pointed out 'memory' as the secret of long-run at Sariwon Noodle House. This is because there are vestiges of long regulars who have come even before he can remember. This is the reason why the family of Sariwon Noodle House is dedicated to pass down the business. "Around half of our customers come outside Daejeon. Instead of simply exploring good restaurants, they come back again for the memory after moving because of marriage or job. We rebuilt today's restaurant around 10 years ago, and some of them say that they miss the past. But then, when they taste our cold noodles, they are satisfied saying, 'It tastes the same.' (Laughs.) We hope to celebrate the 100th anniversary by maintaining this taste." Address 62, Junggyo-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (5 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon). Opening Hours 11am - 10pm Representative Menu Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles, Short Rib Soup, Bulgogi #2 Since 1977, Daejeon Galbi House (대전갈비집) Pork Ribs, one of the most popular dining menus of families, were livelihood of Lee Jeom-sun (63), the owner of 'Daejeon Galbi House'. The restaurant that began with two briquette stoves in a small space to raise three siblings 40 years ago, has reached today's size with over 200 seats. The owner may be astonished at the changes, but she feels that nothing much has changed, and doesn't feel the change of time. This may be evidence that she lived an extremely busy life and kept to the original intention. "I didn't start because I was confident in pork ribs. At first, I marinated in my own way, and when a customer said it's too salty, I put less salt, and when a customer said it's too sweet, I put less sugar. That way, I adjusted the taste. Today's recipe was completed by learning from customers over the decades. But in return, I have a belief of using only the honest and good ingredients." Pork Ribs were made based on the appetite of many customers, but some may feel unfamiliar with the appearance. Usually, pork ribs are dark brown in color, but here, the color of pork ribs is close to fresh meat. You may think it tastes dull and insipid, but she confidently suggests that you 'try first'. "Because our meat looks bland in the appearance, some may be doubtful about the taste. But it seems that their thought changes after tasting one bite. (Laughs.) People like the clean taste of fresh meat and the characteristic salty and sweet tastes of pork ribs at the same time. Most pork ribs seasonings in the market have artificial coloring. Also, they try to hide the bad quality meat by using dark color. We never use artificial coloring in the seasoning, and choose fresh and high quality meat each day, and directly trim in the restaurant. Honesty is our loyalty and promise to customers." The owner emphasizes trust in gratitude toward the customers who helped maintaining livelihood during the hard times. Inexpensive prices compared to the quality and efforts also came from this intention. "Husband passed away when the eldest was in the middle school. We still have customers who came during the difficult times to help us. My three children grew up well and became a Korean medicine doctor, a doctor and a prosecutor, and I think they could grow up so well not because of my own efforts, but also because of the help of customers who have visited at Daejeon Galbi House. So I can't raise prices and use cheap ingredients. I'd like to greet my customers with good short ribs as long as my health allows to repay their kindness." Address 419-8, Daejeoncheonseoro-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (9 minutes’ walk from Jungangro Station in Daejeon) Opening Hours 11am - 10:30pm Representative Menu Pork Ribs, Soybean Sprout Stone Pot with Rice #3 Since 1983, Yeongdong Restaurant (영동식당) In the Special Food Street between Gyebaek-ro and Gyeryong-ro, also called 'Food Street' near the Seodaejeonnegeori (Jct.) Station, there are restaurants standing in a row and boasting of their long tradition and good taste. Above all, 'Yeongdong Restaurant' loved for healthy menus including Goat Stew and Rabbit Soup, is even more reliable with titles such as 'exemplary restaurant' and 'third generation & 30-year tradition business' certified by the Daejeon Metropolitan City. Because the restaurant is located inside a narrow alley instead of the main street with a series of restaurants, customers are mainly regulars instead of casual customers. Although it looks familiar and quiet, customers coming from word-of-mouth often line up in the alley. Kim Dae-heum (56) who's responsible for the taste of Yeongdong Restaurant after inheriting the business from his mother Jeong Won-ja (77), always feels sorry for long waiting customers. For this reason, he refuses the proposals from TV food shows. "If we are introduced on TV, people will come from all over the place and this will cause inconvenience to regulars. We have many who drink over braised spicy chicken, and they will feel pressured to leave, and I don't feel comfortable to see customers wait outside for a long time. Instead of introducing on TV to draw people, I feel most thankful and pleasant when people spread the word after dining here." Some regulars bring people to offer braised spicy chicken. Confidence in recommending a restaurant to others would be possible because the taste and service are satisfactory at all times. The owner also regards unchanging taste and friendly response as the secret of the restaurant's long-run. "As for franchises, we expect uniform taste and service, but if they don't keep to the basics, they will close down soon. It's no different for us even though we are a small business. I believe, keeping the old taste and greeting customers are my duties. No matter how old and famous we are, we should always keep to the basics and careful, because it takes only seconds for customers to turn away." Braised spicy chicken of Yeongdong Restaurant is inexpensive for the generous amount. And this is accompanied by various side dishes such as seasonal vegetables and Kimchi. The restaurant went through financial difficulties a few years ago when prices of potatoes soared, which is one of the main ingredients in braised spicy chicken. But they never changed the price. "At the time, we were on the verge of getting into debts. We had a business with almost no revenues. But no one lowers the price when prices of ingredients fall. So we shouldn't raise the price when ingredients are expensive. Some restaurants reduce the amount or use less ingredients, but this can change the taste. In the ups and downs of the market, we will keep the unchanging taste with perseverance that kept us so far." Address 27-9, 874 beon-gil, Gyeryong-ro, Jung-gu, Daejeon (4 minutes’ walk from Seodaejeonnegeori Station) Opening Hours 11am - 10pm Representative Menu Braised Spicy Chicken, Goat Stew, Rabbit Soup
- 2019-12-27 16:48
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- [고고가게 Eng. ver] Gogo Eateries ④ Daegu Story
- ※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다. ‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'. ●Daegu Story● #1 Since 1957, Sangju Restaurant(상주식당) When you walk along a narrow alley between sky-scrapers near Jungang-ro subway station, also known as Myeongdong of Daegu, you come to a cozy old house. This is 'Sangju Restaurant'. In front of the gate is a signboard saying, 'No Drinking. No Smoking, business period from March 1 to December 15'. From the owner Cha Sang-nam (73) who has been running Seongju Restaurant after the late Cheon Dae-gyeom, we heard the hidden story. "When I was young, it was a small groggery so called 'Sangju House'. As I grew up, I hated my friends calling me a 'groggery girl', and I realized that people look down on you if you sell liquor. I pleaded mother not to sell liquor. That way, we sold Beef Bone Soup in winter, Spicy Chicken Soup in summer, and Loach Soup in autumn. But there were several restaurants selling these menus. So we thought hard 'What to sell in order to survive'. I visited and studied famous restaurants with mother. At that time, meat was rare, so we made a broth from intestines and made Loach Soup, and it tasted good." Today, they use beef shank instead of intestines. It is specialized for the clean taste by adding high quality loach grown in Korea, high mountain napa cabbage and garlic to this broth. Other secret recipe would only include sincerity, diligence and honesty. A day of the owner begins with cleaning napa cabbage at 5 in the morning. "When I touch cabbage leaves, the level of moisture varies each day. So I adjust the water depending on the condition. Ingredients are as important as loach. So we don't open during winter when napa cabbage is not harvested." There's another reason that they don't open the restaurant in the winter. Cha worked in a trading company in Seoul for about 10 years and in the weekends, she came to Daegu and helped her mother. One day, she could not help because she was busy at the company, and when she visited after two weeks, she saw her mother wiping tears quietly . "I decided that I should help mother again. Because I could not entirely quit from the company, I made a proposal for my mother to take a break for even three to four months in winter when napa cabbage is not harvested. Then, I'll come and work in other seasons. But then, when mother passed away in 1993, my younger siblings gave up inheritance because they were so thankful about raising them with this restaurant. They asked me to take over the Sangju House the pride of mother although it might be difficult for me. In fact, it was also my pride. From then, 25 years have passed. I'm going to make loach soup to keep our pride and promise with younger siblings." Address 598-1, Gukchaebosang-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (4 minutes’ walk from Daegu Jungangro Station) Opening Hours 9am - 8:30pm (Opens from March 1 to December 15) Representative Menu Loach Soup #2 Since 1972,Bongsan Braised Short Ribs(봉산찜갈비) 'Braised Short Ribs Alley in Dongin-dong' near Daegu Metropolitan City Hall, is a representative food street loved by locals and tourists alike. This is where you can taste 'braised short ribs' with spicy garlic seasoning instead of sweet soy sauce seasoning. And 'Bongsan Braised Short Ribs' has been the first comer in this food town. In the beginning, it had been a noodle house for day laborers in the nearby construction sites, but as customers asked for meat menus, today's house of braised short ribs was born. Beef short ribs enhance health of people after hard labor, and spicy and salty seasoning restores appetite in scorching hot weather of Daegu. In addition, they put a generous amount of minced garlic. The food comes in a simple brass pot without garnish or decoration, which had been used to serve noodles. The bumpy brass pot reveals the wrinkles from age, and for this reason, the restaurant has many regulars who shared good and bad times. This 'memory' was a critical opportunity for the second owner, Choi Byung-yeol (50) to inherit from his mother, Lee Sun-nam. "I studied in a university and worked at company in Seoul. When I turned 40, mother wanted me to come down and inherit the restaurant. At first, I wanted to refuse, but for the sense of duty as an only son, I traveled to and from Seoul for one year and did hall serving. That was when my thoughts changed. I realized that there were so many people who loved and cherished the memory of our restaurant. Thinking that their memory would vanish with Bongsan Braised Short Ribs, I had sense of responsibility and mission. At last, I came back to Daegu in the following year and started aright." Reminding of the determination at the time, he plans to continue the reputation as 'A space to present memory'. In addition, he works hard to lead pleasant dialogues with customers thinking that 'food means communication'. "These days, people look at mobile phones and don't talk to each other even when they are dining out. People somehow talk over drinks, so we have free cork charges for all types of liquor. I'm happy if customers make memorable times." Emphasizing 'people over money' in terms of a successful life, he is also interested in 'environmental issues'. "I'm making small changes such as putting an umbrella draining machine instead of a plastic cover like cafes that do not use disposable goods. I'm thinking of new ways such as rewarding customers who return untouched side dishes to reduce food wastes. We are borrowing this environment from our descendants, so I'd like to pass down clean environment along with Bongsan Braised Short Ribs to our descendants." Address 9-18, 36-gil, Dongdeok-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (9 minutes’ walk from Chilseongsijang Station) Opening Hours 10am - 10pm (Closed on National Holidays) Representative Menu Braised Short Ribs, Rib-eye Stew #3 Since 1963, Miseongdang(미성당) 'Flat Dumplings' are one of the 'Top 10 Delicacies of Daegu' along with Dongin-dong Braised Short Ribs, Spicy Raw Fish Salad and Blow Fish Bulgogi. When we talk about tasty dumplings, most people would think of generous fillings in thin skin, but flat dumplings are the opposite. They are flat just like its name, fillings are scarce, and dumpling skin takes the biggest role. You would wonder what to expect for its taste, but its simple and soft texture like Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles will arouse your appetite. There are several restaurants that sell flat dumplings all around the country, but 'Miseongdang' boasts of the longest history. When food was scarce immediately after the Korean War, the late Lim Chang-gyu who founded Miseongdang, designed flat dumplings by using minimal ingredients of glass noodles, chives and flour. Most dumplings are served right after making and steaming, but to make flat dumplings, you boil them once, soak in water for about an hour and grill over high heat. This was a desperate measure to expand dumplings in size in difficult times. Thanks to this idea, flat dumplings looked not only plenty but also gained the unique soft texture. Today, we don't starve anymore, but the second owner after his father, Lim Su-jong (56) keeps to the original recipe from 50 years ago. "The recipe and ingredients are unchanged. It looks as if we don't put any ingredients or efforts into it, but it's not easy to get a uniform taste and shape each day. We make around 15,000 to 20,000 dumplings in a weekday and 30,000 in a weekend, and all our employees are veterans with over 20 years of experience. I think the secrets of a long-run were reliable employees and honest taste." Generosity of the owner would have contributed to continuous service of employees. Lim says that he is thankful and that they are 'helping each other'. For the long history, family of Miseongdang have shared good and bad times. But this year, they had to leave the restaurant where they cherished 50-years of memory. They had to relocate because Namsan 4-5 District where Miseongdang was originally located began reconstruction of apartment. They were sorry, but regarded this as another beginning for the next long-run. At the beginning, Lim's son offered helping hand. "My son decided that he would inherit the business, and is learning hard. Because the restaurant is too fresh (laughs), it doesn't have the old atmosphere, but we will gradually build up history by maintaining the taste. Of course, son's skill will be upgraded. Father always emphasized the importance of the 'smoky taste'. I think this is our knowhow and I hope my son to keep this smoky taste." Address 93, Myeongdeok-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu (4 minutes’ walk from Namsan Station) Opening Hours 10:30am - 9pm (Closed on National Holidays) Representative Menu Flat Dumplings, Spicy Cold Chewy Noodles, Udon, etc.
- 2019-12-26 09:52
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- [고고가게 Eng. ver] Gogo Eateries ③ Busan Story
- ※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다. ‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'. ●Busan Story● #1 Since 1959, Baekgudang(백구당) Baekgudang, meaning 'white seagull', is the oldest western-style bakery in Busan. For 60 years over 3 generations, the name changed into 'New Paris Bakery' and the store changed its size, but the taste of bread is unchanged. Jo Jae-bung (54), the third owner said, "Our secret of long-run was introducing new tastes through study while maintaining old ways with honest ingredients." From sweet paste bun and western-style cakes of early days to 'Croissant' made 45 years ago by the second owner, and 'Mugwort & Rice Loaf' developed by the present owner, the fame continued throughout the past and the present. Especially, Jo Jae-bung focuses on combining Korea's local seasonal food ingredients with bread. "We strive to develop bread using local seasonal food. We made mugwort castella in the spring, and red persimmon roll cake in the autumn. We choose good ingredients directly from production areas. We do natural fermenting without additives or preservatives. We have pride in honest ingredients, and I feel worthwhile because we never deceive our customers." He has philosophy and pride about bread to the extent of a craftmanship, but in fact, he didn't have plan to inherit Baekgudang in the first place. After graduating from the university in Seoul, he worked diligently in a large construction company. But when his father had a stroke, a shadow was cast on Baekgudang. His family was concerned over inheriting Baekgudang, and at last, Jo Jae-bung took the lead as the eldest. "In order to succeed, I went to the Korea Baking School, obtained certificates and studied business at a Graduate School. I joined father's business in August 2000, and in the first 6 months, I pushed myself into work from 4am in the morning until 12am midnight. Fortunately, at that time my father still had energy and I received the technique to bake bread." Does he have plans to pass down the business? Instead of the expression, 'inheriting the business', he began to talk, "I will take business temporarily'. "Baekgudang will keep going, and I took it over in the meantime. Next, I hope my second son to take it, but I cannot assure, because my father first considered passing down to my younger brother. In the end, I think it would be Baekgudang's duty to choose the next owner. (Laughs)" Address 3, 81 beon-gil, Jungangdae-ro, Jung-gu, Busan Opening Hours Mon - Sat 8am - 10pm, Sun 9am - 5pm, National Holiday 9am - 6pm Representative Menu Croissant, Mugwort & Rice Loaf, Pie Manju, etc. #2 Since 1967, Yangsan House(양산집) We cannot leave out 'Pork and Rice Soup' when we visit Busan. Above all, Yangsan House was the first restaurant to sell pork and rice soup on the street of Kkangtong Market. Somehow the old pork and rice soup restaurant reminds you of an elderly granny, but this place is run by a young man of early thirties, Noh Chi-gwon (31). For a famous restaurant for its taste, people may easily think that he gained benefit from inheriting family business, but it was a different story with Mr. Noh. When he prepared for an exchange student program in the U.S after being discharged from the army, his father and mother passed away one after another from sickness. In the abrupt parting, what remained were Yangsan House and passion of a young man of twenties. The owner, in memory of the times, said, "I had no choice." "I had to earn money for living right away, and I thought it would be better to carry on the family business instead of working in a company. In general, you inherit knowhow of how to cook food and run a business from the previous generation, but I had no time for any of these. I tried to reproduce the taste by adding advice from relatives and acquaintances to my over-the-shoulder knowledge, but it tasted terrible in the beginning. I often heard customers saying, 'It's not as good as it used to be since the son took over the business.' At that time, I could not post the title of 'Business in Third Generation'. He went into the business without knowing how to cut. For a while, he learned cutting skills by working in a nearby Japanese restaurant after work. He gradually got closer to the original taste by studying soup within ingredients used by his grandmother and mother. This way, he gained approval of neighboring merchants and regulars, and finally in 2014, he declared the title confidently, 'Business in Third Generation'. "I worked hard to restore the original hand taste, but even more, I keep it in mind, 'Inheriting the Spirit'. My grandmother and mother always helped those in need while they worked laborious business. Over three generations, I thought it would be worthwhile to inherit the philosophy of the past generations instead of only inheriting materials. Originally, the title was named after the name of region, and they gave it a meaning of 'Endless Charity' from its Chinese meanings, 'raising'(養) and 'flowing'(汕). In fact, Yangsan House has been donating a part of its profit to poor neighbors and organizations. Like his grandmother always said, "Feed everybody", he has been warming the world with his 'large bowl' he inherited from his early generations. "Like a warm bowl of soup melts your body and soul, I want to share warmth with people. I feel so proud by the thought that I can help somebody to survive with the money from my hard work. I want to become a 'large bowl' that can share warmth with people like a bowl of soup." Address 30, 47 beon-gil, Junggu-ro, Jung-gu, Busan (9 minutes’ walk from Jagalchi Station) Opening Hours Everyday 10am - 8pm, Break Time: 3pm - 5pm Representative Menu Pork and Rice Soup, Boiled Pork Slices, Boiled Pork Slices Meal #3 Since 1950, Seongil House(성일집) Seongil House, boasting the longest history among sea eel restaurants in the alley at the back of former Busan City Hall, is run by the second owner, Choi Young-sun and her son Kim Seong-yong. 68 years old Mrs. Choi devotes in trimming sea eels for four hours every day. You're mistaken if you think of finger-sized sea eels that you eat over drinks. It's as thick as a tight fist, and as long as the owner's arm. This is possible only because the sea eels are grown in Korea. The owners were proud of their matchless ingredients. "People who used to eat eel in other restaurants are surprised at our food. Most restaurants use cheap imported sea eels or even cheaper frozen sea eels. It might be better if we think only of the profit, but now we work for the tradition of Seongil House and my reputation rather than money. When this passes down to my son, it will be one hundred years of history, and I believe that I should pass down such confidence." She says that she's not chasing after money, but when she inherited Seongil House from her mother-in-law, they were in a complicated situation. After the Korean War, she began cooking sea eels and opened up a restaurant to feed eight children in difficult circumstances, but at that time, sea eels were not popular. Choi's strong will contributed to bringing Seongil House to feet. "I got married when I was twenty, but we didn't have a wedding because we had a debt. I promised mother-in-law that 'I will work hard and have a wedding ceremony 10 years later.' I put everything into sea eels. Thankfully, I paid off the debt in 10 years, and the family budget improved, and I could have a wedding ceremony. I think I lived a successful life because I raised my kids who gave me beautiful grandchildren. I'm happy because I don't have to borrow from others but give mine." Another pride of Seongil House is that they do not use 'artificial seasoning'. Instead, the broth made from 23 oriental medicinal herbs enhances the savory taste. The combination of high quality sea eels and medicinal herbs means healthy food. These efforts were originated from her love toward grandchildren. "Sea eels are highly nutritious with high proteins, and are good for the growth of children. But most children don't like its taste. I asked my grandson to eat sea eels 20 times in return for the latest mobile phone. After promising this, I thought night and day how to make healthier taste. After trying various medicinal herbs, seaweeds and vegetables, I came up with today's seasoning. We will never use artificial seasonings in the future. And I have to feed my grandson four more times (Laughs)." Address 103, Daegyo-ro, Jung-gu, Busan (3 minutes’ walk from Nampo Station) Opening Hours Everyday 11am - 11pm Representative Menu Grilled Salted Sea Eel, Grilled Marinated Sea Eel
- 2019-12-24 09:54
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- [고고가게 Eng. ver] Gogo Eateries ② Incheon & Gyeonggi Story
- ※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다. ‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'. ●Incheon & Gyeonggi Story● #1 Since 1946, Gyeongin Noodle House(경인면옥) Ham Yong-bok, the first generation owner from Pyeongan-do Province, opened Gyeongin Noodle House after inheriting Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle recipe from his eldest brother who had run a cold buckwheat noodle house. The business was inherited to his son, Ham Won-bong, and subsequently to his grandson, Ham Jong-uk who is the third owner. In fact, Gyeongin Noodle House was born even before Ham Jong-uk was born. "Originally, it was a rice soup restaurant called 'Gyeongin Restaurant', and my grandfather acquired it to open a cold noodle house. Because many customers came for rice soup, he began business by adding cold noodle to the existing menu. Menus of the time remained even in my father's generation, but as I took over the restaurant, I gradually reduced the menu because I wanted to concentrate more on the taste of cold noodle." Over three generations, menus were reduced, but the quality of food upgraded. They use bay salt that has been matured more than three years, and only the Korean beef with higher than grade 1 (1, 1+, 1++) for noodle toppings and soup base. The ingredients cost two to three times more expensive than before but this does not mean a rise in the price. Also, the quality of ingredients changed, but the recipe is still the same as 70 years ago. Gyeongin Noodle House is keeping the site and taste, but the public awareness to Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle changed a lot over time, of course, in a positive way. "Even during my father's time, most people preferred Hamheung Cold Buckwheat Noodles. Sometimes we had customers who were unfamiliar with the clean taste of Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle and complained about the soup base. It has been not long since Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle gained popularity thanks to gourmets who introduced it on TV program. Now even those who have never tasted it before enjoy its 'charming taste'. Because of the unique clean taste of Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodle, sensitive customers respond to even the slightest changes. Even though they strive to make the same taste each day, it's not easy to maintain uniform taste. Family of Gyeongin Noodle House eat cold noodles for lunch to check the taste of the day. "Noodle taste can vary by weather and sometimes by my daily condition. But we try to make the same taste as 70 years ago by keeping to the basics. It is our long wish and goal to serve consistent and honest cold noodles even after decades." Address 38, 46 beon-gil, Sinpo-ro, Jung-gu, Incheon (8 minutes’ walk from Dongincheon Station) Opening Hours 11am - 9pm (Until 3pm on Tuesday) Break Time: 3pm - 4:30pm, Weekend & National Holiday: 4pm - 5pm Representative Menu Pyeongyang Cold Buckwheat Noodles, Pyeongyang Spicy Buckwheat Noodles, Mung Bean Pancake, etc. #2 Since 1963, Jidonggwan(지동관) 'Jidonggwan' is a representative Chinese restaurant in Uijeongbu city that has continued by three generations of Chinese chefs in Korea. 'Jidong' was named after the wish to reunite with family of Kim Seong-jeong, the first owner who was originally from Shandong, China. Especially, Kim received the Order of National Security Merit from former President Park Jung-hee for his participation in military service during the Korean War. Afterward, people called him 'Master Sergeant Kim' and visited Jidonggwan often in reward of his participation in the war. Kim Yuk-an (60), the second owner said, "Jidonggwan settled down well thanks to citizens of Uijeongbu." "Those who thanked my father at the time even visit today. This means that we have many middle-aged regulars. Since we run the business in the same place for a long time, we went through remodeling and changes, and a few years ago, we installed an elevator for the convenience of customers. The restaurant is two stories, and it was not easy for some people with uneasy movement to climb up and down the stairs. We thought we could make this change for elderlies who visited for a long time." Kim Yuk-an is still in the business, but he entrusted much about the business to two sons in preparation for full inheritance of the family business. The elder Kim Ji-seong (30) is in charge of customer and staff management in the hall while the younger Kim Ji-ryang (28) is responsible for cooking and menu development. Customers who saw them from kids say that they are delighted to see the two inheriting the business. Kim Ji-seong said, "The business continued for three generations, and customers also come throughout the time", and spoke of his aspiration to maintain the reputation to reward long regulars. "I never thought that I must continue the family business, but if I retrospect it, I felt sorry if the history of Jidonggwan vanishes inevitably. Because two of us helped father from our young ages, we are not unfamiliar with the work, but the responsibility itself is heavy on my shoulder. Recently, we were designated as a '100-year Restaurant' by the Ministry of SMEs and Startups, and I think it's worthwhile to reach 100th anniversary to deserve the title!" Jidonggwan serves excellent general Chinese menus such as Noodles in Black Bean Paste, Spicy Noodles with Vegetables and Seafood, and Sweet and Sour Pork, but it's also fun to discover various handmade dim sum and delicacies. They are continuously offering new menus preferred by the young generation such as Adductor Muscles or Beef in Mala Sauce and Guobarou. "We have over 50 dishes in our menu but people usually order what they are accustomed to. We try to keep the basic taste of long-run menus and also serve trendy dishes. As a result, we plan to lead pleasant changes that satisfy the family of three generations." Address 78, 1298 beon-gil, Hoguk-ro, Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi-do (5 minutes’ walk from Uijeongbu Station) Opening Hours Everyday 11am - 9:30pm, Break Time: 3pm - 5pm Representative Menu Noodles Mixed with Seafood in Black Soybean Sauce, Sweet and Sour Pork, Handmade Dim Sum, etc. #3 Since 1960, Odeng Restaurant(오뎅식당) We cannot forget to mention about 'Sausage Stew' when it comes to gourmet restaurant in Uijeongbu. There are old restaurants that serve Sausage Stew Street near the Uijeongbu Jung-ang Station, and 'Odeng Restaurant' boasts of the longest history. How did Huh Gi-sook, the founder of the restaurant, start making sausage stew around 50 years ago? Her grandson and today's owner Kim Min-woo (37) told us the untold stories about the birth of sausage stew. "In the beginning, she started a fish cake street vendor. One day, customers who worked at the U.S army near the vendor brought ham, sausage and bacon and asked my grandmother to make snack for their drinks. At first, she simply stir-fried whatever they brought to her, and regulars asked her to make a stew to be served with rice. So she cooked a stew by adding Kimchi and seasoning, which became the origin of today's sausage stew." Although the restaurant specializes in sausage stew, they kept the title 'Odeng Restaurant' as their original customers used to call it during the time of street vendor. In fact, this place gained popularity when it was introduced in 'Le Grand Chef', a cartoon by Huh Young-man. Unique clean sweet taste is the sole charming point of sausage stew as described in the cartoon. Ordinary sausage stew uses ham, sausage, tofu, minced beef, glass noodles and Kimchi. On top of that, you can add toppings for your preference, and the most popular topping is 'Ramen'. The owner explained about the special secret hidden in Ramen topping. "We made Ramen topping exclusive for Odeng Restaurant after 6 months of study. These noodles are specialized for sausage stew because collagen makes them more chewy and elastic. They don't puff up easily compared to ordinary Ramen. As for basic ingredients and side Kimchi, we prepar and mature them in a factory at Yeoju. Many regulars feel attractive to our matured Kimchi and come to dine." They kept the old ways for sausage stew, but changed menus by reflecting trends in each time. The taste of sausage stew is especially changed by the type of topping, which made it possible to keep a long run menu enjoyed by all people regardless of age and gender. Recently, Odeng Restaurant is planning to attract more customers by opening direct stores in other regions. Of course, the owner is confident about the same taste of sausage stew whichever restaurant you visit. "Our philosophy is consistent taste, so that we run only direct stores and we don't have any plan to start franchising. New stores have modern interior design, but because I wanted to leave vestiges of my grandmother who inherited the family business, I decorated her photos in every store. Like my grandmother, I want to tell my two sons to continue the family business." Address 15, 1309 beon-gil, Hoguk-ro, Uijeongbu, Gyeonggi-do (2 minutes’ walk from Uijeongbu Jungang Station) Opening Hours Everyday 8:30am - 8:30pm Representative Menu Sausage Stew, Assorted Toppings, Ramen Topping, etc.
- 2019-12-09 11:26
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- [고고가게 Eng. ver] Gogo Eateries ① SEOUL Story
- ※ 본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다. 그동안 '브라보 마이 라이프' 매거진과 온라인 기사를 통해 만났던 '고고가게' 시리즈를 해외 독자 분들을 위해 영문 버전으로도 준비했습니다. ‘Gogo' has several meanings such as old, elegant and outstanding. Let's take a visit to a famous restaurant that perfectly fits this expression, 'Gogo Eateroes'. It's easy to select and find just near the subway, let's shout 'go-go'. ●SEOUL Story● #1 Since 1967, Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery(김용안 과자점) 'Senbei' is a Japanese-style cracker that Koreans have enjoyed since the Japanese occupation of Korea. It came across the sea, but 'Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery' decided to change into a Korean name so that it could stay rooted in this land for a long time. He named it 'Korean Cracker' instead of Senbei and called differently for each shape and ingredient such as cubes, ginger, peanut, and green laver. After decades of baking crackers since Kim Yong-Ahn (real name Kim Yong-chul) opened the bakery, his son Kim Hyung-jung (49) and son-in-law Lim Wan-sik (40) have continued the business for around 10 years. It takes around eight hours only to make one type of crackers. This is because it takes human hands to make each piece instead of mass production in factories. Efforts are added for better taste, but it demands hard labor. Nevertheless, Lim says the perseverance of keeping the handmade recipes made today's business possible. "In the days when there were not enough snacks like today, there were many shops selling rice crackers. But because it required hard labor to make crackers and people preferred crackers made in factories, it was difficult to maintain living. Shops closed down one after another, but father took a firm stand. After years, rice crackers that are common now gained value of scarcity. In my understanding, there are only few shops in Korea that bake cracker directly in stores." In the past, they sold jellies and candies along with handmade rice crackers, but today, they make everything in store except one sort of Dolgangjeong. Most crackers used favorite ingredients for Koreans such as green laver, perilla seeds and ginger, but the bakery is also well visited by foreigners. "We were once introduced in a regional tourist guide book of Japan, and since then, pretty many Japanese tourists have come to our shop. When there was a US army in Yongsan, military servicemen often came to buy. Some came back to our shop saying, 'I am pleased to find you still here' when they visit Korea even after going back to their country." Kim Yong-Ahn Bakery has regulars in Korea and abroad. When we asked for any plans to run a postal-order system for more people to easily enjoy crackers, the owner waves dismissively. "We tried once, but we'd better not. Crackers are fragile and break easily. In summer, they even get soggy. As far as we know, our customers anticipated for taste, but customers and we felt dismayed. It may be a difficult journey for some, but we feel safe to offer the crackers only when we check quality directly." Address 155, Hangangdae-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (1 minute’s walk from Samgakji Station) Opening Hours Mon - Fri 10am - 9pm, Sat 10am - 8:30pm Representative Menu Korean crackers (Cubes, ginger, peanut, green laver, etc.) #2 Since 1958, Gyeonggi Tteok House(경기떡집) Recently, the so-called 'Mangridan-gil' has brought frequent visits of youths and foreign tourists to Mangwon-dong area. In this alley of emerging cafes and restaurants of new sensibility, a store has kept its long history. It is called 'Gyeonggi Tteok House'. It was opened when master Choi Gil-sun (66), a student of Kim Jang-seop who established the Heungin Mill in 1958, inherited the tradition. And this tradition has been inherited to his four sons reaching today's Tteok House. Four sons has studied Tteok as a healthy dessert for all people to enjoy lightly with a goal of 'keeping' and 'continuing' the tradition. The eldest, Choi Dae-ro (37) chose 'trust' as the secret of long-run, saying that he plans to make a Tteok House that carries on through second, third and fourth generations. "Our highest priority is to use food ingredients that our customers can trust to eat. Even today, my father still visits the places of origins to select good rice and grains. Although there may not be major change in taste, we are trying to keep upgrading ingredients. For example, if we have food ingredient that gives 99% taste at 100 won, and food ingredient that gives 100% taste at 200 won, we would definitely choose the latter. We never use aged and foul ingredients. Also, as many people place an order of Tteok to celebrate special days, punctuality is our basic principle. One day, I saw dad crying while making Tteok when my younger brother was sick. For someone, he may not be good father, but I think we need the sense of duty to keep the tradition." The longest running Tteok made in the hands of the master is 'Black Sesame Injeolmi', but the most popular Tteok is 'ET Tteok'. It's been 20 years since released this Tteok. Because it's one of the oldest menus, some people ask 'what it means in Chinese characters', but in fact, it was named after 'ET' from a classical movie. To both sides of a thumb-sized gluttonous Tteok, we shape and put peeled red bean paste, and the finished Tteok resembles the face of ET. Another major menu would be 'Honey Tteok'. It is popular regardless of gender and age, and it is popular even among foreigners who call it 'Honey Balls'. Because Tteok can easily make you thirsty, the Tteok House also offers Sikhye and Sujeonggwa. Choi Dae-ro and his brothers plan to launch a dessert cafe of Tteok and beverages made of mixed grain powders. "Since retro is current trend, people's interest in Tteok has increased. In this environment, fusion desserts have emerged such as tiramishu Tteok and cream cheese Tteok, but we don't want the future of our Tteok to unravel in this direction. We are gathering strength to study menus that can appeal to trendy people while keeping our tradition." Address 24, 9-gil, Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul (2 minutes’ walk from Mangwon Station) Opening Hours Mon - Sat 8am - 6pm Representative Menu ET Tteok, Honey Tteok, Black Sesame Injeolmi, etc. #3 Since 1970, Yetnaljip Nakwon Agujjim(옛날집 낙원아구찜) 'Agwijjim Street' is located near the Nakwon Arcade in Seoul Jongno-gu. 'Yetnaljip Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish (hereafter Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish)' first opened braised spicy monkfish restaurant in this alley, and contributed to today's fame. Because so many businesses named themselves 'Origin' and 'Tradition', they indicated 'Very First' in the signboard. Spicy but savory braised monkfish of this restaurant has refreshing taste without the unpleasant taste in the mouth. On top of the taste, for the owner first introduced braised spicy monkfish in this Jongno alley, it is natural to suspect that he is from Masan or Gunsan, but no. Jeon Nak-bong (92) who always keeps his position at a table in the corner of the restaurant at his age past 90 is from the North, and his wife Yoon Cheong-ja (80) is from Seoul. Yoon says that there was no special reason to begin serving braised spicy monkfish. "An acquaintance taught me how to cook. In the beginning, I simply followed the recipe, but I gained tips day after day. I studied in the early years what ingredients enhanced the taste and the ideal proportion of seasonings. Since I organized my own recipe, I have kept the original way until now." For nearly 50 years, they have trimmed monkfish brought daily from the Noryangjin Fish Market and made radish watery kimchi two to three times a week to maintain the taste. Couples who dated at Nakwon Braised Spicy Monkfish in the early days come back as old couples, and a son who came with his father brings grandson. The secret would definitely be the taste of braised spicy monkfish that has continued for a long time, but some people also pay a visit to the owners who give a warm welcome to all ages. "I would be lying if I say it wasn't hard because I worked every day for decades without a break. But when regulars greet me and say 'I'm glad you're still here, aunty', or 'I came to see granny', I'm so thankful for their greeting and visit and energized. And when people say 'There's nowhere like here' after going to several restaurants in the alley, I feel proud and rewarded." This old couple says that even after deciding to stop working because of their old age and declining health, they can never desert the restaurant at the sight of regulars. But after their youngest son, Jeon Seung-geun (57) inherited the family business, they are only greeting customers at ease. "The most important thing is the taste of hands, which my son has inherited properly. Old regulars say that the taste is the same as mine. But I'll try to be here if my health allows. Please come and see me because granny is still around." Address 436, Samildae-ro, Jonggo-ru, Seoul (3 minutes’ walk form Jongro 3-ga Station) Opening Hours Everyday 11:30am - 10pm Representative Menu Braised Spicy Monkfish, Monkfish Soup, Braised Spicy Seafood, Seafood Soup, Stir-fried Rice
- 2019-11-26 16:50
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- [고고가게] 대전편③ 36년 전통 ‘영동식당’
- 36년 전통 ‘영동식당’ 서대전네거리역 인근, ‘맛동네길’이라 불리는 계백로와 계룡로 사이 전문음식특화거리에는 오랜 전통과 맛을 자랑하는 식당들이 즐비하다. 그중에서도 닭볶음탕을 비롯한 염소전골, 토끼탕 등 몸보신 메뉴로 사랑받는 ‘영동식당’은 대전광역시 인증 ‘모범음식점’, ‘3대·30년 전통업소’ 등의 타이틀로 믿음을 더하는 곳이다. 맛집들이 늘어선 큰길가가 아닌 좁은 골목길 안쪽에 자리 잡은 가게에는 뜨내기손님보다는 오랜 단골이 주를 이룬다. 정겹고 한적해 보이지만 소문을 타고 찾아오는 이들로 종종 줄을 서기도 한단다. 어머니 정원자(77) 여사에 이어 영동식당의 맛을 책임지고 있는 김대흠(56) 씨는 오래 기다리는 손님들에겐 늘 미안한 마음이 앞선다고 말했다. 때문에 맛집 프로그램 섭외가 들어와도 고사하곤 한다는 그다. “방송을 타고 나면 갑자기 사람들이 확 몰려와 단골손님들이 불편해지는 상황이 벌어져요. 닭볶음탕 국물 반주 삼아 드시는 분이 많은데, 그분들도 여유롭게 즐기지 못하고, 밖에 있는 손님들도 오래 기다려야 하니 마음이 편치 않더라고요. 애써 방송으로 사람을 끌어모으기보다는, 맛있게 드신 분들이 입소문 내주시면 그게 가장 고맙고 기분 좋은 것 같아요.” 단골 중에는 매번 다른 사람을 데려와 닭볶음탕을 맛보이는 이도 있단다. 누군가에게 식당을 자신 있게 추천한다는 건 늘 그 맛과 서비스가 실망스럽지 않기 때문에 가능한 일일 것이다. 주인장 역시 변함없는 맛과 친절한 응대를 최우선으로 여기며, 그것이 가게의 장수 비결이라고 생각한다. “프랜차이즈의 경우엔 어디든 일정한 맛과 서비스를 기대하고 가는데, 대개 그런 기본을 지키지 않는 곳들은 금방 문을 닫게 돼 있죠. 우리처럼 작은 가게라고 다르지 않아요. 옛 맛을 잘 지켜내고, 언제나 친절하게 손님을 맞는 게 제 임무라고 생각합니다. 아무리 오래되고 유명한 가게라도 자칫 기본을 잊고 방심하면 안 돼요. 손님 마음이 돌아서는 건 한순간이니까요.” 영동식당의 닭볶음탕은 푸짐한 양에 비해 가격이 저렴한 편인데, 제철 나물이나 김치 등 다양한 반찬도 인심 좋게 내놓는다. 몇 해 전 닭볶음탕의 주재료인 감자 값이 폭등하면서 재정적인 어려움이 있었지만 가격에는 손을 대지 않았다. “그땐 정말 빚 안 진 것만도 다행이지, 거의 남는 게 없이 장사했어요. 그런데 재룟값이 싸졌다고 가격을 내리지는 않잖아요. 그럼 비쌀 때도 가격을 올리지 말아야죠. 어떤 집은 대신 양을 줄이거나 재료를 덜 넣어주는데, 그러면 맛이 변하니 절대 안 되고요. 그렇게 오르락내리락해도 지금껏 버텨온 뚝심으로 변함없는 맛을 지킬 겁니다.” 대전1호선 서대전네거리역 4번 출구 도보 4분 주소 대전시 중구 계룡로874번길 27-9 영업시간 11:00~22:00 대표메뉴 닭볶음탕, 염소전골, 토끼탕 ※본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다.
- 2019-10-29 10:17
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- [고고가게] “속이고 감추지 않는 건 손님과의 의리이고 약속입니다”
- 42년 전통 ‘대전갈비집’ 가족 외식 단골 메뉴인 돼지갈비가 ‘대전갈비집’ 주인장 이점순(63) 씨에겐 가족의 생계수단이었다. 40여 년 전 삼 남매를 키우기 위해 다섯 평 남짓한 공간에서 연탄불 두 개를 놓고 시작했던 가게는 어느덧 200석이 넘는 규모에 이르렀다. 격세지감을 느낄 법도 한데 주인장은 오히려 별다를 것이 없고, 세월도 얼마 지나지 않은 것 같단다. 그건 아마 눈코 뜰 새 없이 바삐 살아왔기 때문일 테고, 초심을 잃지 않았기에 그러할 것이다. “특별히 돼지갈비가 자신 있어서 시작한 건 아니었어요. 처음엔 제 식대로 양념을 해서 내놓았다가 손님이 짜다고 하면 간을 적게 하고, 달다고 하면 설탕 좀 덜 넣고 해가면서 맛을 맞춰간 거죠. 그렇게 수십 년에 걸쳐 손님들에게 배워가며 현재의 레시피가 완성된 셈이에요. 대신 정직하고 좋은 재료 쓰자는 건 철칙으로 삼고 있습니다.” 수많은 손님의 입맛으로 만들어낸 돼지갈비이지만, 어떤 이들은 그 겉모습이 다소 낯설다고 느낄지 모르겠다. 우리가 익히 떠올리는 돼지갈비는 짙은 갈색을 띠지만, 이곳은 거의 생고기 빛깔에 가깝다. 자칫 싱겁지 않을까 싶지만, 주인장은 “일단 구워 드셔보라”고 자신 있게 말한다. “우리 집 고기가 겉보기엔 희멀거니까(?) 맛이 없겠거니 여기는 분들도 있죠. 근데 한입 드시면 그런 생각이 싹 바뀌나봐요.(웃음) 짭짤하고 달달하고 돼지갈비 특유의 맛도 나는데 마치 생고기 먹는 것처럼 깔끔하다고 좋아들 하시죠. 대부분 판매하는 돼지갈비 양념은 색소가 들어간 경우가 많아요. 또, 고기의 질이 떨어지기 때문에 진한 색으로 감추려는 의도도 있죠. 저희는 양념에 색소를 절대 쓰지 않고, 고기도 매일 신선하고 품질 좋은 것으로 골라와 직접 손질해 사용해요. 속이고 감추지 않는 건 손님과의 의리이고 약속입니다.” 주인장이 이토록 신뢰를 중시하는 건, 어렵던 시절 생계의 버팀목이 되어준 고마운 발길들에 대한 보답과도 같다. 재료의 품질이나 들이는 정성에 비해 음식 가격이 높지 않은 것도 그러한 마음에서 비롯됐다. “큰애가 중학생 때 남편이 세상을 떠났어요. 애들 먹여 살리느라 고생한다고 찾아와주신 분들이 지금도 갈비 드시러 오세요. 우리 삼 남매가 한의사, 양의사, 검사로 다들 훌륭하게 잘 자라줬는데, 그건 나 혼자가 아니라 대전갈비집을 다녀가신 손님들이 함께 키워주신 거라고 생각해요. 그러니 어떻게 가격을 올리고 음식을 허투루 만들겠어요. 은혜를 갚는 심정으로 건강이 닿는 한 오래오래 좋은 갈비로 손님들을 맞이하고 싶습니다.” 대전1호선 중앙로역 1번 출구 도보 9분 주소 대전시 중구 대전천서로 419-8 영업시간 11:00~22:30 대표메뉴 돼지갈비, 콩나물돌솥밥 ※본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다.
- 2019-10-24 14:10
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- [고고가게] 대전편① 67년 전통 ‘사리원면옥’
- 67년 전통 ‘사리원면옥’ 지역마다 평양냉면 노포들이 있지만, 대전에서 ‘평양냉면’ 하면 첫손가락으로 꼽히는 곳이 바로 ‘사리원면옥’이다. 1952년, 황해도 사리원 태생인 故김봉득 일가가 6·25전쟁 직후 대전에 내려와 자리를 잡으며 이북식 냉면을 팔기 시작한 것이 지금에 이르렀다. 사리원면옥은 평양냉면으로는 물론이고, 대전광역시 일반음식점 허가 제1호 식당으로도 그 명성이 자자하다. 현재는 창업주의 손자인 김형준(64), 손자며느리 송명희(64) 내외가 가게를 지키고 있다. 또 부부의 두 아들인 김기남(39)·김기석(37) 씨도 4대째 가업을 물려받기 위해 부지런히 일을 손에 익혀가는 중이다. 주인장 송명희 씨는 “아무래도 냉면은 분식이라 쉽게 배가 꺼져 든든하게 곁들일 수 있는 불고기를 고안하게 된 것”이라며 “동절기엔 냉면이 덜 나가 갈비탕을 내놓기 시작했는데, 손님들 반응이 아주 좋다”고 말했다. 어머니가 운을 떼자 큰아들 기남 씨도 자신감 넘치는 목소리로 음식 설명을 거들었다. “냉면이 주력 메뉴이지만, 불고기도 신선한 과일과 야채로 양념을 만드는 등 신경을 많이 씁니다. 갈비탕은 겨울 메뉴 타깃으로 내놨는데 고기 양이 많다고 입소문이 나서 이제는 사시사철 사랑받는 메뉴가 됐죠. 다른 평양냉면집과 차별화된 건 아무래도 ‘소고기김치비빔’이 아닐까 해요. 대개 가게에서 직접 사태나 양지로 육수를 뽑는 냉면집은 사용하고 남은 고기를 활용한 메뉴를 내놓곤 하거든요. 이곳에서 손수 만들었다는 일종의 증거인 셈이죠. 저희는 그 의미로 소고기김치비빔을 선보이고 있습니다.” 기남 씨는 사리원면옥의 장수비결로 ‘추억’을 꼽았다. 그가 기억하는 가게의 세월보다 오랜 단골들의 흔적이 더 깊이 스며 있기 때문이다. 이는 사리원면옥 식구들이 대를 물려 가게를 지키는 이유와도 같다. “대전 외 지역에서 오는 손님들이 절반은 되더라고요. 단순히 맛집 탐방하러 온다기보다는, 원래 이쪽에 살다 결혼이나 직장 때문에 터를 옮겼던 분들이 옛날 생각 하면서 찾아오곤 하죠. 10년 전쯤에 건물이 너무 낡아 새로 지은 게 지금 모습인데, 예전 분위기가 그립다고 아쉬워하는 단골들도 계셔요. 그러다가도 냉면 한번 드시고는 ‘맛은 그대로네’ 하며 흡족해하십니다.(웃음) 현재의 맛을 잘 유지해, 앞으로의 100년을 맞이하는 게 저희의 바람입니다.” 대전1호선 중앙로역 3번 출구 도보 5분 주소 대전시 중구 중교로 62 영업시간 11:00~22:00 대표메뉴 평양냉면, 갈비탕, 불고기 ※본 기획 취재는 (사)한국잡지협회의 지원을 받아 작성되었습니다.
- 2019-10-22 13:39